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Howdy all--

What is the story on replacements for front struts/springs? FLAPS says NLA. Dealer says NLA.
My car (1974 four door) says boing, boing, boing.

I've got an NOS pair of German Sachs strut inserts for the type 4.$80.00+ shipping.Paul www.jbbugs.com

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65'sunroof 2332 58'double-door panel 59'vert' 77'Westy 73'Superbeetle dirtrack racecar 57'tube-frame dragbug(hanging from the ceiling)

Bulley, it would be incredibly rare to need to replace the front springs themselves. They are so lightly loaded and about 30% higher rate than necessary. Look for some ofmy back posts. The valving in the KYB GR2 low pressure gas strut catridges for Audi 4000 S and VW Quantum are perfect...but you need to build an extension stub for the top...and a spacer tube for the inside to sit under the cartridge. I have had this in place for over two years. Handling is stupendous. It also lowers the nose high front end to parralel with the back, helps correct the castor angle and keeps the stock spring spacing. I will post the drawing for the simple stubs soon...I just got back on line today. I am also working on a pair of strut extensions that will screw onto the existing strut housing...made from a pair of pieces from a pair of donor housings. They are about 5" long...screw on in plave of the cap that screws on, on top of the cartridge. They allow the use of the audi cartridge, audi bump stop, late model strut bearings..which are superior and still available for cheap...and require no machining...other than duplication of the factory thread on the inside of the tube...on a lathe (about $65). I will use a single tack weld...or a lock screw to insure they do not come unscrewed. Give me a week or two and I will post the plans. Ray

Ray,
did you ever have find the time for this modification?
Jos

Hey Bulley, welcome back!

Caxambas...sorry for the delay. No, that one is on the back burner. Its a lot more work for little benefit. I think the method I just outlined will do better..considering that lowering more than 2" makes the car virtually undrivable over about 30 mph...and on smooth pavement. All the extension method really does is alleviate any welding skills. If you just want a single ride height (preferable in my opinion)...then using the rabbit tubes inside teh 411/412 tubes works the very best....but wihout the adjuster rod I described in another post. Then...once the tubes ar pushed into th correct length...any shop can simply weld a bead or a few spotwelds...and you are ready to put them in. The stubs....is what I already use. I will soon be replacing them with the rabbit/412 version. Ray

Thanks Ray!
By the way, if you still want the Mexican FI runners and central plenum send me a PM with your address to mail these to -no shipping charge-, if you want to keep them, they are yours, otherwise send back after scrutinizing them.
Jos