Tranny Options

[Joe Del]

I will be building a 2270cc T4 engine that will put out approximately 120+ HP. I'm trying to determine what tranny mods are necessary. The engine will go in a '70 IRS Beetle. I was told the CV joints in the IRS are the weak link and I should consider converting to a swingaxle. Evidently, the CV joints are weaker than the stock side plate???

Fortunately, the swingaxle swap will be a simple bolt in application (changing spring plates). I won't be running slicks, but I do like to "launch" the car on occasion. I figured the street tires would break loose before the CV joints would.

I want a bullet proof daily driver so maybe I should consider a swing axle. I was also planning to lower the rear of the car with the IRS tranny about one inch, but that will create camber problems with a swingaxle tranny.

What I REALLY need is a 73+ tranny with the self supporting T/O bearing. Should I even consider a swingaxle with the T4 engine?

Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.

[Spyke]

Jake,

I am planning on installing a 1.7L into my otherwise retro-rod 1960 Karmann Ghia. (Unless I stumble across a Judson for the stock 36hp sometime soon )

I seem to remember reading that the 71-72 IRS trans can be converted to swingaxle use without much difficulty? If I went with a Type II input shaft could I use the 914 flywheel I already have with the transaxle you're talking about?

What I'm trying to say is: Could you supply me with something for my 1960 K-G, 80hp type IV conversion... I'll still be using the swingaxle rear end, with a camber compensator. Drag racing is not in the cards, it'll be more of a weekend cruiser so the 3.88 gear would probably work better. What kind of price range would we be talking, or hasn't that been decided yet?.

Thanks!

[tarnx]

The swing axle cars has a bad habit of the tucking the wheel up under the car if you cornered too hard. Total loss of control and you would sometimes flip. I came close a couple of times with a stock 61. Limit straps available from off road houses limit how far your axle will move down. I believe they are essential for all swing axle cars even stock. You never know when you might get into trouble. Swing axles are tougher but irs handles a whole lot better. Curves or straight make a decision. I have also seen off road houses with stub axles and Type 2 cv joints for sale. They are usually in the section where you convert a bud to a bus trans.

[vw@micron.net]

I would NOT convert back to swing.
You can source VW Thing or Early Porsche 944 stub axles which allow you to convert to VW Type II Bus outer CV joints. This helps eliminate a weak point. The splines on the axles are the same for the T1 and T2 so don't worry. You can also upgrade to TII inner CV joints but it takes more work. The outers are most important to upgrade. Also torsional IRS axles from SWAY-A-WAY should help with trans breakage as they wrap up a bit to take some shock load out of the trans. Get a 4 spider super diff like Jake said. The only parts I've ever broken after probably 100 burnouts are spider gears and outer CV joints.

I run a 091 bus box in my baja which is very strong, and I'm installing a 901 5 speed in my street car. Both use T II CVs and are very strong.

Steven