my case

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:00 pm

Hi all,

Here is the engine I've purchased, as is!

The damage from the bearing letting go is'nt as bad as expected. What do you all think?

Also, can someone provide me with a link to an oxyboxer conversion 'page?

Thanks,
Cam

Post by **Piledriver** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:06 pm

Is that a hole I see?

May not be a show stopper, those cases are really tough.

Is it a 1.9 or a 2.1?

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:10 pm

Yeppers! That's a hole. These cases are really hard to come by locally and I've seen a couple with very serious rod thrown damage

So I don't think this is too bad.
Any recomendations on the sort of person I should get to repair it? Will a basic engine rebuilder be able to help, or should I be looking at a more specific trade?

Post by **Piledriver** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:45 am

...A proper welding shop, but if there are no cracks, and the hole is not THAT big... and you wanted to absolutely make sure there was no warpage... bead blast the area and use a high temp metal filled epoxy..

Here in the states its called JBWeld.

Welding is of course preferred, but it might work.

Jim Andritsakos · Post by **Jim Andritsakos** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 12:06 pm

Hello Cam!

I was dealing with these engines all the time as I work (since last winter)in the only and the bigger rebuilder of waterboxers in Greece!
We have repaired a lot of them with a hole in the roof the they are ok!

You can send me some close photos of the inside of the case to : vw_wasserboxer@yahoo.gr to tell you if it is rebuildable!

We have always both early and late WBX engine cases that are rejected due to corrosion in the sealing areas but are excellent for oxyboxers!
68.9mm cranks are plenty around 76.4 are hard to obtain...

Good luck

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 2:51 am

Thanks guys!

Piledriver, We're going to run this engine with a turbo and methanol, purely for club racing. Would JBWeld work okay in this sort of application?

Thanks Jim, I'll be tearing it down next week, so will further inspect it then. What would be the best way to go about converting it to an oxyboxer? Do you have any links to webpages with steps to this conversion? Also have many people succesfully ground these cranks to chevy rod journals to get extra stroke?

Thanks,
Cam

Post by **Piledriver** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 8:29 am

By club racing, you mean autocross/roadrace/hillclimb, or drag racing?

I have read you guys have a more interesting idea of racing "down south"

It would depend on how hot the block got.
http://www.jbweld.co.uk/files/prodb.html

Supposed to be good to 300C
A block should NEVER get that hot.

If you have a nice clean punched hole with no risk of further cracking, isn't a structural area,etc, it should work fine.

A PROFESSIONALLY done weld would be better... but...

Consider getting some of the 101.6 autocraft jugs, rework the wasser heads, and run them water cooled. with a small radiator, like off a MC. A thin plate welded on the bottom to seal `em up is all that should be needed.... Corroded wasser heads are a dime a dozen in the US--But for this app, they would be perfect.

A pair of good electric blowers might be sufficient to keep the jugs cool with WC heads... The big bores dont have much for fins tho. Perhaps modified Duetz(sp?) AC diesel jugs?

No stud relocation required.
(Hell, almost no machining required, you'd just have to hack off the water jackets and bore the case a tad) Keep the water pump... With some creative plumbing work, you might be able to use the existing housing in place

Of course the Pauter/autocraft etc "big bore" heads will also bolt on, just cost more $$$ and wouldn't have the cooling capacity.

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 5:02 pm

LOL, yeah we do have abit of a different idea. Here is a link to my favourite track, which we race around for club events.

http://www.phillipislandcircuit.com.au/welcome.html

That will be the main track we'll be running the car at. It's very exciting, fast and scenic. Other than that, we'll be doing hillclimbs and a few other fast circuits.

I'm still checking to see if we'll be approved to run Methanol in the car. I know a few hillclimb guys do it, but they're alot stricter when it comes to circuit racing, so we'll have to see.

The autocraft cylinders are what I was intending to purchase, but I'd be interested in these Duetz items, I've never heard of them before?

As I said, wasser anything is very difficult to come by down under, and the heads did'nt come in the deal with this motor. However it had crossed my mind to use watercooled heads but with an electric water pump.

So a hacksaw and hand held dremel to clean it up should suffice then?

Post by **Piledriver** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 5:16 pm

Cool-- a real racetrack!

Running a SB I hope, with little work they handle awesome.

.....
As to removing the water jackets---I have not done this, so take with shaker of salt, as I have said I plan on keeping the water cooled T1 water cooled, it works GREAT that way.

Sawzall. Low speed cutter. Hole saw. High speed bad, will load up cutters and piss you off.

There is probably a far more elegant method...

But that's probably what I would do.

I'm like that.

Several folks have done the AC diesel thing, search for it is all I can say, looked cool, they all seemed to use used jugs they got free and rebored them.

An external electric water pump would probably be fine, I know they make them, just extra $$$

Those heads should be a dime a dozen...

Of course folks here cannot comprehend the idea of using the right antifreeze...

Have you considered staying water cooled completely?
Should be far easier... No sense building a custom geometry motor and then turbocharging it...
(Unless you want to of course;-)

The autocraft jugs I've ever seen do not have jack for fins.
(on methanol it may not matter, dont know)

Blown stockish wassers on gas are (supposedly) OK to >400HP
(different fuel metering I'm sure, but the 2.1 factory manifolds are pretty good dia...Good starting point)

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 1:00 am

Yeppers! I love that track.

We've got a 1303 with a tidy 1600 in it. We were thinking of throwing the 76.4 crank in the case with 94's, some mild heads, CIS and a blow thru for now. Then getting a BIIIIG crank and goodies for the oxy case.

Yeah, I'm like that too. If it works and can save you dollars do it. I always double check before doing most things tho, if people say 60% of the time that a pro should do it, then I take it to the pros.

Never seen any aircooled diesel engines before, will have to chase it up. Cheers!
I was planning to use 100mm Porsche Nickies with 911 heads, relocation of the studs and re-pinning the cams ofcourse.
Can't say I want to go down the WC route, I've seriously considered it. But the VW this case will go into will be something very special, so for sentimental reasons I'm going with air

Stroker 40 horse · Post by **Stroker 40 horse** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 2:15 am

Aluminum and Magnesium can be brazed, without warping, special equipment, or special training, with the right rod:

<<< http://www.newtechnologyproducts.net/more_info.htm >>>

I haven't tried this brand myself.

Nobody seems to know about this stuff