pros&cons

[dathing]

Aloha,

I have a stock 1600 with an pertronic ignition, dual 40's kadogs, and kymco hide out muffler.

In the future I plan on building an 1835.

Here's my question: rocker arms, and power pully, what are the pros and cons of the 1.25/1.4 and 1.5? Should I buy a weighted pully or a stock pully? Is there any advantage over the weighted pully over a stock pully.

P.S. I want to be able to run this on my 1600 and in the future put it on my 1835.

Mahalo,

Neal

[fetasigma]

your asking for quick death of a thing engine if you drop on a power pully, i would never suggest one unless its drag only it drops your fan speed and cooling....counterwieghted pully is good though especially if you go with a`lightened flywheel. 1.25 can be worth it if you got tha`dough

my 2 cents

[Bob Ingman]

Neal if you plan to rebuild just put the money into a good cam like the Engle 110 or 120 instead of ratio rockers. Use a good quality degree wheel. A power pulley is not good as they reduce cooling out of proportion to power gained. Its backward to what you want. Think cool!
Good luck. Bob Ingman

[MASSIVE TYPE IV]

Anything but an 1835! 1776 or 1914. Experienced builders forget that an 1835 is an option.last one I built was almost 10 years ago!

[K-Mann]

Bob Ingman contacted me and asked me to provide details concerning my T-1 1915. While I agree that the T4 is a great deal. It does require some mods and pre thought for a clean install in a 181. I originally planned to build a 1904 using my stock original AM Thing case. After spending countless hours on the engine rebuild thread of this forum, I came up with a very affordable plan to create a very good 1915. The 1904 stroker was far out of my budget. We have a 2110 that we run on our prerunner in the Baja. But then we have almost $4K in that jewel. My 1915 was painstakingly built for big time low end torque, instant response, very high cooling and severe compensation to run at altitudes from 9,000 ft to 12,500 ft. I have listed most of the specs for this motor below as Bob asked me.

Herr-K 1915 specs

CASE--GERMAN AS-41 alloy, 8mm case inserts studs, Dual relief, sunk #3, NEW 20 over line bored, std thrust. Cut for 94mm spigots using a step cut method for more strength--My special baby. Decked for improved cylinder resting area. drilled and taped and cleared for full flow, A very good case.

Crank- stock GERMAN forged steel NON CW, ground 10 on mains and rods, 8 doweled spg pattern. Stock gland nut,stock timing gears, stock dowls-8, Stock GERMAN steel- stock weight Flywheel 200mm 12V. NEW silicon main seal. end play - 4thou, stock oil slinger.

Main Bearings- Federal Mogal-steel backed, rod bearings Metal Leve, cam
bearings Mahle, all NEW, runs with NEW oil- 20-50 Castrol, new oil filter.

New gaskets
NEW Engle 110 cam, NEW German lifters, NEW cam timing gear-AL, NEW cam bolts with NEW locking washers, used red locktight with them also.

NEW Schadek, 30mm oil pump, NEW AL FF cover, taped oil outlet, locktighted in plug. Longer studs instaled for best thread holding force.

OEM metal cam plug

OEM stock 1600 forged steel rods, 5.394 length, balanced close to end to end, within .05 gram. side clearance as follows
#1 15thou
#2 14thou
#3 14thou
#4 13thou

NEW Mahle Hyperutectic 94mm Piston and cylinder set, ring gaps set
at staged intervals. Balanced to within .05 gram. Snap ring piston pin
retainers. Cylinders cut down 40 thou to get desired deck for CR.

Heads, NEW Dual Ports, New valves, guides, seats everything,
Fly cut to a 45cc chamber, ported mildly appropriate. lapped in valves, lots of
Combustion chamber work, seats staked in, chambers reshaped for flow, Match ported manifolds. you need to notice I marked the manifolds P for passenger and D for drivers side, heads marked as well. valves adjusted to .006 thou, stock 1.1 rockers and shafts. stock AL German pushrods. stock tubes, silicon seals, aluminum finned valve covers, CB performance valved and sealed oil breather system T-4 oil cooler modification, external oil filters and
The heart and soul of this motor was hashed out on STF in the engine rebuild list and a few other sources. A few thoughts that have been brought up are gospel for the offroad 1915 they include.

Do not lighten the flywheel.. (that cuts out inertial force and kills low end torque)

Do not use a drag strip pulley and reduce cooling

Remember that I run this motor at 9,000 ft – 13,000 ft so the 9.1 compression give be sea level meat… This ratio with Pemex would kill yer motor. Compression ratio is 9.11 to 1 Dual Dell 45s with 009 dist with compufire electronic ignition and high volt coil.

VW Trends has run several article about the low cost building of a 1915. Then in the September 2003 issue they ran “What’s Inside Quality German’s 1914CC ... This motor is very similar to mine without some of the extreme machining, balancing and dial in. In the process of putting this motor together I contacted all of the were all very
Players , Jake, AJ etc. They were all very helpful. Given the $$ I would suggest you consider getting a Raby T-4 massIVe. If you run a Kad get with AJ. He is the master of that carb… Hopefully the above stuff is of some interest/use to some of those in the planning stages of a new motor. I remain willing to share what little stuff I have discovered.

[MASSIVE TYPE IV]

The TIV is not a big deal to install. With the DTM shroud the body needs no cutting at all, everything fits like a glove.

The ONLY issue is with exhaust and a 21159 and 21149 from www.ahnendorp.com is a drop in.

With my components, its all a direct bolt up into a 181. I have done it many, many times for Things. I just sold a shroud to a guy installing a 2270 TIV into a Kubel!!! Yes, even it installed without cutting the engine bay!

In February I'll be selling all the parts for all the TIV conversion needs. No prethought, no guesswork. If I sell it, it will work!