Replacing my pan halves today. Got the passenger side full pan half out. I have some minor rust above the jacking point that needs attention. It runs about 6 inches down the side of the car and 1 inch up, measured from the rear fender (above the jacking point). Will my thing sag in the center if I cut this out and weld in new material? I assume that the body section below the doors reinforce the car's midsection much like a convertible bug's reinforced pan.
mstatedog
will my thing fold up?
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Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
I had to do that to mine. There was about a foot section above the drivers side jack bracket that had to be replaced. I cut it out and the jack bracket stayed in place. I then made a template and fabricated a patch piece with the needed bends in it . After a little tacking it was welded into place and later painted with the rest of the pan.
I cant tell anyone that has not done this what a good feeling comes of replacing rotted sections with solid ones. It does the soul good. Best of luck as you continue. Bob Ingman
I cant tell anyone that has not done this what a good feeling comes of replacing rotted sections with solid ones. It does the soul good. Best of luck as you continue. Bob Ingman
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Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
Dog I had rust in both the body and the pan. I removed the body to repair them seperatly. Both had sections removed and replaced.
I doubt that you will have to worry about the body buckling. I had both sides cut away under the doors (rockers) and still moved the body around on and off sawhorses using camper jacks. Its stiffer than you would think. Best of luck. Bob Ingman
I doubt that you will have to worry about the body buckling. I had both sides cut away under the doors (rockers) and still moved the body around on and off sawhorses using camper jacks. Its stiffer than you would think. Best of luck. Bob Ingman
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Kubelmann
- Posts: 1380
- Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2003 12:01 am
Many folks get an old Thing door and cut sections out to repair rusty rocker panels. The ribs on the doors and the ribs on the rockers are the same size. You can get a door from ebay or other sources like the Samba for under $25. With a rusted out bottom they sometimes go for $10 and the good news is they are never rusty up on the ribs where the repair material is created. I got a pair for the low price adn thye both came wiht complete door hardware adn seals (a bonus) A sawzall and a few blades and you are good to go. Hope the idea helps. K-mann
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Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
You asked what I used for replacement metal. For replacing pan sections I used heavy sheet metal that was around at the time. Templated were made of posterboard and transfered to the material to be cut and welded in.
For the body--after removing rotted sections on the bottom of the body that ran from fender to fender I installed 3"X5" rect tubing channeled into the body 2" thus creating a three inch lift. This was welded then smoothed and later covered with aluminum diamond plate (see gallery thread). For more commentary see nathans welder thread. Best of luck. Bob Ingman
For the body--after removing rotted sections on the bottom of the body that ran from fender to fender I installed 3"X5" rect tubing channeled into the body 2" thus creating a three inch lift. This was welded then smoothed and later covered with aluminum diamond plate (see gallery thread). For more commentary see nathans welder thread. Best of luck. Bob Ingman
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mstatedog
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2003 4:54 pm
Thanks for the info guys. I have replaced the rusty metal between the pan and the body on the passenger side and replaced the entire passenger side floor pan. The pans I bought from action imports fit near perfectly with only minor trimming. These pan halves were made in Denmark (If anyone wants to know....and they were about $120/ea) I still have to do the driver's side.....
mstatedog
mstatedog