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Creamy Foam Filling....

Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 9:24 am
by rfoutch
Has anyone ever thought about using that expanding foam, not the ones in the can, but the mix and pour type, to fill the body of the thing. I know that they used to sell it at TAP plastics.

I was looking yesterday and noticed that there are body plugs everywhere and that the shell is hollow.

As tinny as the Thing is, it would make the car much more solid without adding much wieght at all.

The key would be figuring out how much to use, I would guess that one would do it in stages...(And I bet it would float too!)

What do you think?

Randy

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:45 pm
by Class 11 streeter
Hmm, can't believe none of the forum regulars have answered this......I lurk here from time to time to learn from Bob Ingman and others.

That foam you mentioned was used by Monster Garage a year or so back to make a New Beetle float as part of an airboat conversion. It worked! And unlike the household spray can foam, the mix-n-pour type doesn't attract moisture, or water for that matter. It pours much like paint, and I don't think it can be pressure fed into high areas. If you are serious about doing this, mounting the body on a rotisserie and turning it over/around might be the only way to get the goo into some higher nooks and crannies. Might be a good sound deadener also.

The downside is it might take a jackhammer to get the stuff out after it cured. :lol:

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 10:05 pm
by type11969
Also, if you filled an empty space with too much of the liquid foam and it expanded too much, you will probably have a big dent that you won't be able to get out easily. Just something to consider . . .

-Chris

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 10:51 am
by Capn Skully
My problem with foam filling is the damage it causes. Helping the metal rust by trapping water.

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Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 3:44 pm
by MNAirHead
Capn's right....

I've parted down many rusted beyond repair cars...

The 2 biggest issues seem to be bad seals and that foamy stuff that VW started in the 70s.

I've used the high density closed cell foam for our victorian home restoration stuff -- not sure if it's got many structural properties.

Good use for the foam is to use it as a moldable backing for fiberglassing... get a block in place... foam around it... mold the foam... take away 1/4"... then start glassing... works incredible... then remove the foam when done.

T.

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2004 4:52 pm
by Bob Ingman
Much better ways of dealing with rust umless you absolutely need the car to float. Best of luck. Bob Ingman

crosspost, things digest

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 9:21 am
by Michael Basso
thought i would share this answer i replied on the things digest with all of you.



The absolute worst parts cars I have dismantled, had rustproofing in the
rockers.

The best way to stop your rockers from rusting is to plug the little
triangles in the door jams, where water was designed to enter the
rocker.
Then remove the drain plugs at the bottom of the rockers, and throw them
away.
Rainwater was meant to actually drain through the rockers, and out the
small holes at the bottom of the rocker.
you can hose it out, with air or water and replace the plugs but i would
be periodically checking them.
These drain plugs back up with dirt, and water rots your rockers from
the inside out.
drain plugs 111801177

another water trap is located in your front beam, there are drain holes
at the bottom of the shock towers, make sure they are open also to allow
moisture to drain out of them.
these take no plugs.