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Im thinking about making some WW2 style duck boards for our 73 Thing, any one use the ones from the thing shop or any place for that matter?

I build custom cabinets for a living so i was just going to make my own at the shop i work at (there very simple looking to make). the ones off the thing shop are like $195 bucks, to me thats way to expensive to buy anyways.

Perhaps i could make a few sets if people are interested and i can make them look and hold up good. Im sure i could do it for less than the $195 the thing shop sells them for.

Im thinking of doing them out of oak or hickory.

Later,
Jonathan

Jonathan, I may be interested. Also, there was a big discussion about this awhile ago on Topica and I forgot what the consensus was on which wood was best for this application.

Maybe one of the other guys remembers.

Rick

About the topica discussion, I was involved in that and remember no clear winner. My personal choice was Alaskan Yellow Cedar treated with boiled linseed oil. Oak and teak were mentioned as well. Anything will serve the purpose its just a matter of maintaince requirements. Personally I want nothing that is going to scratch(verathane etc) used as the sealant. Too tight to be sanding once final assembly is completrd. Cheers. Bob Ingman

Could you post a link to this? im interested in reading it!

I mentioned oak and hickory becuase we do a lot of cabinets out of this right now in our area, so it wouldent be hard to scrub a little scraps if needed. i would have to calculate how much board feet is needed to figure out my cost of materials.

I was thinking of a design (wouldent be a TRUE WW2 style unit) that used wood dowles to hold everything together... they would have a hole drilled in the sides of the boards with the dowles going through them to keep them together, this way you would have no fasteners to worry about.

I will most likely make a replica of the real ones first.

what should i use to keep them from rattling and to keep them from scraping up the paint?... i would use the mounting posts to keep them from moving, but im sure they would still wiggle and vibrate around.

Later,
Jonathan

Sorry there is no way I can link you to that list. It it a private email group requiring ownwe consent.
I have seen somewhere on the net (thing ring probably) a step by step illustrated how to on duckboard fabrication. Hopefully someone will remember where to find it. Bob Ingman

super vw wrote:
what should i use to keep them from rattling and to keep them from scraping up the paint?... i would use the mounting posts to keep them from moving, but im sure they would still wiggle and vibrate around.

Later,
Jonathan

jonathan,

i like your idea of making the duckboards. i want a set, but i really dislike oak, so i haven't bought any. i like your dowel idea, that is a very good way to join them. brass screws that are blind from the top and have the holes dowel filled will also work well.

as for the rattle problem: i would use some rare earth magnets. counterbore the underside of the duckboard in register with the mounting posts and glue the magnet inside the hole so it just bottoms out on the mounts. the magnets are available from lee valley tools and will definitely prevent the boards from rattling if the fit is worked out carefully - they are super strong. i would also use rubber anti-rattle pads on the bottom of the duckboard, and make the rubber pads the same thickness as the swiss cheese mats. that way, if you have swiss cheesies and you want to put the duckboards on top (like i do), you can remove the anti-rattle pads and the magnet will still sit at the right depth to just bottom on the post.

i have designed my own duckboards in my head for about a year...i would like them in teak or mahogony. while i like bob's idea of cedar aesthetically, i think cedar may be too soft for this application.

Scott careful not to confuse Alaskan Yellow Cedar with Western Red Cedar. Vastly different woods.
Alaskan yellow is commonly used in marine applications for both ribs and planking. It is about as durable as a wood as there is. I`m not saying its the only choice just mine. It is native to the Tongass National Forest where I live so we all here are familiar with it. Its the primary source of our firewood as well. Cheers. Bob Ingman

Howdy....

On a baja a few years back we did some simple ones from softwood furring strips... rabbeted them... ran some exterior grade glue and painted them black... they needed a quick touch every few months

To keep them from rattling used screw through rubber feet from computer cases.

I'm also thinking of doing some of the kits for our bajas and thing.

IDEA - Knockdown Kits.
I have a funky idea for your biz proposition... would be a winner all the way around -- lower shipping -- less production for you

Jig bore the slats.. number the bottom sides ... include spacers... dowels and instructions..

This bundle of wood would be easier to ship --- problem with us V-Dubbers is that we're cheap do-it-yourselfers -- solves both problems.

With this type of dowel instruction, it's not necessary to clamp... could be done with just the right adhesive..

I'd buy sets if I didn't have to set up a line-bore.

T.

Jonathan -
I would be interested in a set...i have been thinking about doing my self...but if you are going to do it send me a price and i will tell if i am down or not?

Airhead, I WAS THINKING THE EXACT SAME THING! Crazy!
But seriously, i thought it would be a great way to do it aswell if the buyer is capable of assembling them correctly. would be a great option.

The only problem with this design is it would force me to lay the planks on the side, so i would have enough material to stick a good sized dowle through (i was thinking 1/2 to 3/4 maybe). in doing so i would have to space them closer and also have more boards per floor area (that makes for more wood, more weight, more money).

Ok, so doing a REPLICA of the WW2 style i think might be the simplist way to go about it. as from looking at the wartime cars in the mags, their floor boards are way simple and unrefined...but we dont want somthing to unrefined (at least I dont).

I was also looking at incoperating a foot rest for the passenger side that would be hinged at the bottom to aid in removing/instaling the floor boards. the foot rest would have two purposes, one is a no brainer
(a foot rest) the other is to keep people from rubbing through the paint at the bulkhead.

Teak sounds like a good wood to me. i have some at our shop, but i have never worked with it personaly. i do know its not the cheapest out there, but i dont think its to expensive.

How much do you guys think they would be worth to you, both front and rear floor areas. i have not looked up how much wood i would need or the cost of it all yet....so

Later,
Jonathan

In Louisiana Cypress is our favorite wood in areas that may be subjected to water. It doesn't rot even when submerged for a long time. I am planning a set for my Thing.

Good hardwoods, stainless steel fasteners and a good shop finish will quickly add up to a tidy sum. Even my own home made cypress duck boards would run me nearly $125-$150 in material alone.

Howdy.

I used to haunt a wood forum....

www.Woodnet.net

There are some great guys who are excellent at coaching on wood type and designs... if you're bright enough to live through their mistakes, you'll be in luck with them....

You can always link this thread and a photo of a duckboard -- it's possible that they may have a design plan in a few hours..

T.

design planing is no problem.

I still have to figure out costs,i have not had time this week to even think about it.

Jonathan

hi all,

I found this site:

http://www.angelfire.com/ct/vwthing/index.html

on my searches recently and found some DIY articles of which one was on duck boards here (under the DIY winch article:

http://www.angelfire.com/ct/vwthing/winch.html

guy