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I am interested in obtaining spare parts for my heater. Things are beginning to go wrong and I have no spare parts. Thanks. Bob

Hello Bob

You should get in touch with Mike Basso, at Thingsunlimited.net

I know that he has got some used parts (and NOS also) for the BN4 heaters.

Regards
Pierre-J MACUA

I have a whole complete heater I am trying to sell. It appears in good condition, the fan runs, all ducts and dampers etc. $200 plus shipping.

I too afraid of the thing to ever use it. Plus it is too hot for a heater down here. Temps are have been in the 80s and 90s the past two weeks.

"G"

Capn you have PM. Bob

Bob,

I have check my settings but the system doesn't notify me when I have a private message. You may want to notify the powers that be.

I responded to your PM.

"G"

I think what I need is the little black box about the center of the car that has two wires and a cable going to it. I have a pic if anyone thinks they may have a spare. Thanks. Bob

Hello Bob

Are you talking about the temp. regulating switch?

There are 2 kind of TRS.

Have you got this one?



It is the most reliable.

You can test it. Use a continuity tester (or for OHMS) and a hair dryer.

Regards
Pierre-J MACUA

Pierre good to hear from you. I sent you an email with a pic of mine. Thanks. Bob Ingman

We have the same TRS.

You should remove yours from the car.

Use a continuity tester (or for Ohms), and a hair dryer.

When the TRS is cold, reading should be 0 in Ohms
When hot, reading should be infinite.

If the readings are correct, put the TRS back in the car, and grease the cable.

Regards
Pierre-J MACUA

Pierre I have my heater on a toggle and have eliminated the timer switch on the dash after a near fatal malfunction several years ago. My problem with that switch is in the connections. Sometimes the heater will not come on (blower start up) until I jiggle the wires a bit then it comes on and runs normally. Occasionly it will shut off by itself and again jiggling the wires will restore function once again.
What would happen if I bypass the switch and join the two wires? Thanks. Bob Ingman

When the TRS is cold, there is some space between the two parts of the spring.
Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is 0. No resistance. The circuit is closed. So the metering fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel. The heat raises.

When the TRS is very hot (maximum temp.), there is contact between the two parts of the spring. Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is infinite. The circuit is opened. The metering fuel pump doesn't get voltage. So it doesn't give anymore fuel until the heat has declined.

When the heat has declined so much that there is again some space between the two parts of the spring, the circuit is again closed so the fuel pump gives again fuel. So the temperature raises.

And so on.

The TRS is necessary.

When you join the 2 wires, it closes the circuit so the fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel.

But your heater will have an overheat if you keep the 2 wires always together.

Sorry for my bad technical english.

Pierre-J MACUA

Pierre no problem about the English. Some of us here do not do as well as you.
You are perfectly clear in your explaination however. I will be in touch through email as I progress in this.
Do you have a manual printed in English? Thanks. Bob Ingman

Pierre I decided to try bypassing the switch. Used a jump lead to connect both terminals simeotaneously. Guess what. Works perfectly now. When I smell something that smells like my right knee melting I know its time to turn the heater off. My timer has been replaced with a toggle . I drove to another village across the island today switching the heater on and off many times and it functioned normally. Will be looking into some serious parts replacement soon. Cheers. Bob Ingman

Hello Bob,

Mike B. sells a VW Thing heater manual.

http://members.aol.com/mpb181/page1.html

Regards
Pierre-J MACUA