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Folks,

I am keeping the a/c on my 412, for a buddy of mine just came onto a stash of r-12 and he does not need it! So anyway, I want my car to be a daily driver, and already have the bracket to swap the a/c from the york compressor to the Sanden rotary style compressor. So, now i need to have new hoses made. My local A/c hose place pretty much sucks as to having any unusual fittings in stock with which to make new hoses with. I would rather them not cut and splice on my old hoses, for i will be in the same boat i am in now.

Also, anyone have a source for a/c o-rings of different sizes?

If anyone needs the paperwork for the ac on a 411/412...I have copies of it all..................parts blow up, etc. It even gives a lot of sizes for things.

I'll take copies of that! i will also check around for hard to find fittings source. They should not be that hard to find. Most were not metric. Just old. Ray

Where did you get the Sanden compressor to T4 engine bracket?

I bought the bracket setup from the bus depot. Also the compressor from them, too. Reasonable prices. The Bracet was about $75 it seems.

Ray, pmail me your address and i will mail you copies...of 411/412 if you need copies for any other vw let me know.
It would be great to help you for a change!

allo ,, make attention , it is not all kind of rubber seal fits for climatisation ,,it is spécial ,,,O ,, ring this spécial ring is made spécial for réf, clim, i have suggestion for you , if it is ,,,york ,, go to chrisler car ,, delco gm car ,, dealer and make attention for the oil inside the compressor , the fréon 134 destroy the minéral oil (old oil in the compressor ) today you have syntétic oil in the comp. and is compatible with fr134 ,,,if your compresor came from old car with ,,fr,,12,, change the oil inside the comp. for the synthétic oil it is very,very, important or your comp. burn afther 2-3 weeks ,,,,

Albert is right on the money. The seals are actually color coded . The problem with r-134...other than the fact that it requires a different oil....and your system must be cleaned of old oil...and you will need a new dryer cartridge....is that it is a little less efficent at cooling and the molecules are smaller. They have a tendency to leak past old style seal material. Its best to use r-134 seals on every connection in the car. Those $20 conversion/sealing kits will not permanently seal the old style seals. It works right away...but its a racket. You will end up adding a can of r-134 about once a month in the summer. If you let it leak all the way down...its back to the vacuum pump. Ray

oh yes ray it is very important to change the drier and clean all the pipe ,wen you have good seal and tite the fiting it is not suppose to leak , the clim.on the car is very expensive ,,the gaz cost 300.00$for 20 pound and in your car you have appx. max 3 pound , plus the hose are spécial and have pressure test for1000 pound (by the law) for sécurity plus watch the cigaret or flame were he have fitting the fr 134 is not fire pruff , in the 134 you have propane (smal portion ) mix witch chimic gaz look for spécialist in your région it is important for your sécurity and the life of your car ,,,

Bus Depot, eh? I'll take a look, that might make my life easier. The York compressor I have now will need an overhaul, and the thought of a lighter, less power-hungry alternative is appealing. Thanks!

BTW, I'm considering using R-134a in the Nomad's A/C...my 30 pound tank of R-12 is now depleted (after 10 years), and as Albert points out, it's gotten horribly expensive (around US$50 a pound hereabouts).

Ray, and others,
This is what i am intending to do with my A/C system. Using flare nut wrenches and Dodge Rust Penetrant (the best stuff there is that i have used) take off the hoses and have remade (as soon as I find a suitable a/c hose place that can make them right) Having different style fittings on the end of the hoses for the sanden compressor.
Then i intend to blow compressed air thru the vasious evaporators, etc, and get out the majority of the old oil, etc. I intended to use r134 o rings every where just in case i end up having to go back to r-134, but at present, i should be able to use r-12. I also figure i should be able to remove the under dash unit and paint it with black vinyl paint to restore its appearance.

allo vgonman ,, d,ont paint ,,alluminium évaporator finn , paint only the plastic frame if you put the paint on évaporator (all,finn) you reduce the power of evap. the paint block 25% of heat and cold transfert , keep your r12 if you have , and the r134 gasket is ok for r12 ,,,if you have smal portion of old oil in your systhem it is not catastrof, wash your systhem with nydrogen liquid and change your drier filter and make good vaccuum and put new gaz (r12,,or r134 ),, d,ont put the air in the ref, sist, in the air you have humidity and yumidity is not goog in ref.sist. the humidity freeze at the expention valve (the valve at entrence of the coil )and the syst. frost,defrost,, ,,, ,,,, and you have bad performance with the syst.

Albert, I am not following you on the flushing of the system..liquid nitrogen? I do not believe I am capable of doing that at home.....no worries, i am not going to paint the evaporator just the plastic under dash housing.

oh ok i see ,,you can make same thing at your home,, you do connection (fitting) adaptor for one side of your coil ( évaporator ,coil inside the car ,,,or condenser ,coil otside the car,, and you kiped open the hoder end and you reverse your gaz (the gaz thank ) and you push inside liquid gaz and you flush 1 minute (appx) liquid gaz if he have old oil she go out (the name of this is (washing the coil) and afther you seal the 2 extremitys of the pipe with tape ( only for to block the air to go inside the pipe (you kiped the tape only for to geeve you the time for to work on your systheme ) afther the 2 coil is clean you instal new seal , and you tite the nuts fitting not to hard (or you break the new seal ) and wend all the parts is in place you put vaccuum pump for 1 hr , (oh have you all the tools for to do that )??? ok i suppose yes and you look the gage if it is in the red line_28-30 max and you close your robinet on the gage and you stop the pump ,and afther you put the gaz only 20 or 30 pound pressure on the black line on the gage ,you close the valve and you look for you ear noyse for leak at the fitting and you put hand liquid soap on each fitting for to see buble ,if you see, you retite the fitting and if no leak you continius to full the gaz to 75 pound ,you close the gage valve and you start your car , yf you see the compressor cluth on and off you geeve the gaz (fr134) and you see your compressor run more long time and in the same time your needle on the gage stay at appx 40 pound ,,ok now you have air cond. ,,,,,ouf ouf ,,, for french men ,long information in english

oh smal correction on the vaccuum if the gage geeve you 10 15 20 pound afther 10 or 15 minutes vaccum you have leak , stop the pump and to the test with smal portion of gaz for to see were is the leak ,,

They sell specially made kits just for flushing the system in basicparts stores here. They are made to clean out oil and corrosion. About $20 I think. Albet is right, do not paint the evaporator or condensor. Paint is an insulator...generally. But...if you can anodize it without getting into the inside....that will actually give you about a 10+ degree faster temp drop rate. Anodizing on aluminum parts (black of course)....is not a coating per-se. It is bonded at the molecular level, on the surface. It does not keep air from intimate contact. And...the black surface draws heat from the inside. Many condensors are anosized black at the factory on the aluminum fins and tubes. Ray

yes ray , the big problem on the car ac , is the vibration from the motor on the hose fitting,,and the gravel if the condenser is in the front ,,, we can instal , the blue luck tite ,,, spécial , for a.c. or ref.sist.,, on the pipe fitting for to stop the leak , (on the tread) and you are ok for anodize ,that is the best protection on the condenser but on the old car it is rare , for the minéral oil in the tubing it is not big catastrof ,,the ref. comp. geeve tolérance max 10% if is mixe with syntétic ref.oil but the rust and the impurety from old compressor that is very bad ,, the good washing ( not with the wather ) in the tubing is the assurance for long life comp. if you can buy a flusing kit for $ 20 buy 2 that make betther job ,, plus make attention for to put the exact quantitys of new oil in the comp. that is very important ,,