Has any one reproduced the black vent piece under the rear w
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Vgonman
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- Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:01 am
Has any one reproduced the black vent piece under the rear w
I think i may have asked about this a couple years back. I need to come up with something, for mine is gone, and when my car is painted in the next few months, the making of the interior is next.........It is pretty good in side (especially with my sweet reupholstered seats) and upcoming carpet. This is just one of those things that was poorly designed in the first place.
Any ideas on this?
Any ideas on this?
- wallacehartley
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- ubercrap
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- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
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albert
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black vent pieces
if it for outside of the car , look ,on the super betle cataloge , brand new from mexico ,, i am not 100% certain for dimention , but that look the same for the 412 wagon outside( air vent )
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albert
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the black pice vent
oh i see it is not wagon , ok that piece is made same thing carbord for to cover the stearing colom and if i remenber on my old 411-412 and it is al the long of back glass , that cover was made with ( chewing paper ) if you ave diagram i can geve you the secret for to do that at your home and wend it is dry you paint black color very easy to do ,,,not joke
- raygreenwood
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He is speaking of the carboard piece. That is one of the first parts i was goig to cast of either urethane...or zinc alloy 3 years ago. But...the only one i had closeby straight enough and unmolested...got crushed before I could get it. What I have been planning to do when all else is done, is to build a close fitting facsimile from pictures...from scratch. It would probably only match factory maybe 75%....but would look great, fit closely...and perform the function the factory part does...better. It actually had a function you know.....
It was to channel air....that came along the roof....from the ground glass vent window edges of the front drivers and passengers windows...along the rear glass...and out the two side vents over the rear fenders...to dry up condensation. It actually worked well....but the sad part is that the condensation it was meant to get rid of....gooped up the cardboard it was made of.
I am going to make that....ad the carboard piece that went under the sterring column and covered the whole underside of the dash. How many of you even knew something went there? It too was cardboard..and went all teh way down between the pedals....covered up all the brake cylindre gear...and went all the way to the fuse panel. Ray
It was to channel air....that came along the roof....from the ground glass vent window edges of the front drivers and passengers windows...along the rear glass...and out the two side vents over the rear fenders...to dry up condensation. It actually worked well....but the sad part is that the condensation it was meant to get rid of....gooped up the cardboard it was made of.
I am going to make that....ad the carboard piece that went under the sterring column and covered the whole underside of the dash. How many of you even knew something went there? It too was cardboard..and went all teh way down between the pedals....covered up all the brake cylindre gear...and went all the way to the fuse panel. Ray
- ubercrap
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- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Surprisingly, I looked, and all three of the cars I have here have the rear cardboard piece. One of them may be nice enough to base a reproduction off of, I'll have to examine more closely. No wonder they went to crap or disintegrated, they are terribly flimsy...I think it could be an easily reproduced part.
- raygreenwood
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- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, It woul be easy. I would simply clean it of surface crud, spray it with about 5 coats of urethane to make it waterproof, and make a two part plaster mould. Then...cast it of either 80 duro paintable urethane...or in worst case zinc alloy. Then, you can either paint it, or....use some of the black version of the stock headliner and some 1/16" foam padding sheet...to upholster it. Ray
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albert
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black vent pieces
good solution ray , if you like same look original ,,the carbord is very easy to do , you take hand bag grey for grocery , you cut in smal parts 1inch by 1 and you put in the stanless pot , you put wather ,(on your home stove) you spare for boilling (212de.fr.) you mix with long piece of woob. you mix all the time , during 15 min. wend you have grey paste , you remoove from fire and you mix with (whithe gleew or paper gleew ) ( i prfere white glue) you put saram wrap paper on your steell model or wood model and afther you put the gry paste ,, 1/8 deep , and you spare 1 day and after you repaint ,,,,, and good cake,,,,,
- ubercrap
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- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Interesting...I would think this would be a perfect part to vacuum form, if one had a big enough vacuum form table. Back when I was in design school, we did it all the time. Basically, the procedure was to carve the positive shape out of polyurethane modelling foam, or renshape board. Holes are drilled in strategic locations. Then, you use duct tape to tape a piece of sheet styrene to a wooden frame. This goes into a machine that has heating elements. Once the styrene starts to slump/sag, the frame is quickly placed over the positive shape. The positive shape is sitting on a platform propped up on some spacers (we used coins stacked up) over a hole. The hole is connected to a vacuum source. You simply turn on the vacuum and suck the hot plastic down over the part. Or, it might be able to be done at home in two parts. One of my friends made a vacuum forming setup in his apartment during school and it worked great. He heated the styrene in the oven. The vacuum form table was a cardboard box with a shop vac that he found in the garbage attached. The limiting factor would be the oven size, but hey, you could buy or build your own pro setup too...
- raygreenwood
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I have done a lot of vacuum forming. The problem with it...is that materials that lend themselves to vacuum forming...ie: styrene, ABS, acrylic, lexan...are all very heat distortion prone. One good summer day in Texas....and its toast.
Vacuum forming was my first thought....but, if you are going to build the mould and buck....its just as easy to cast, as it is to vacuum form....or easier. The plyable materials would work well, and since this is really just a cover, they should do fine. That would be urethanes (acrylic) and silicones...with a support base. Or....with a low melt point zinc/lead alloy.
Or....possibly a mulched paperboard, then a spray gelcoat to make it smooth and waterproof. That would be very close to stock. Ray
Vacuum forming was my first thought....but, if you are going to build the mould and buck....its just as easy to cast, as it is to vacuum form....or easier. The plyable materials would work well, and since this is really just a cover, they should do fine. That would be urethanes (acrylic) and silicones...with a support base. Or....with a low melt point zinc/lead alloy.
Or....possibly a mulched paperboard, then a spray gelcoat to make it smooth and waterproof. That would be very close to stock. Ray
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Vgonman
- Posts: 635
- Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:01 am
Which one of you can really give it a go? I have a customer that vacuum molds plastics, and they make some sort of plastic that they build decks out of.never warps or anything. That kinda stuff would be the ticket. I will ask my customer today or tomorrow. Mayme they can help out at least with a mold...........Mine is in several pieces, but i think i could cobble it together enough to give them the idea.