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Greetings again -

i have another question. I have just bought a 74' super beetle to part out to both sell parts as well as use some of the common parts for my 181.

My question is this...Does the engine from the 74' super beetle fit in the engine compartment of the 181 and is it plauseable ?

Does it need any modifications?

Has anyone done this task b4?

Thanks for any and all info.


Joe

Support your local guy

A Thing engine case has the 3-point mounts (used for a rear engine hanger bracket on IRS buses and Type IIIs) for the skidplate to attach to. Your `74 Beetle case may have them (perhaps not drilled/tapped) but it probably doesn't, in which case you could probably use a "Mickey Mount" to attach the skidplate. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=150318
Other than that I can't think of any significant issues...the `74 Beetle's intake manifold may not match up to a Thing muffler, and if it's a gas-heater Thing you won't need the Beetle fan shroud and heater boxes...do you have a complete Thing motor to raid for parts like this?

Can you explain how the engine adapter you posted in the link above works? I have an AS41 case in one of my Things that has no mounting holes for the engine skid plates and just might want to use that adapter. K-mann

You put on a flat oilpump cover (no raised lip around the perimeter) and install longer pump studs, then the bracket slaps over that and the oil pump nuts hold it on. It also has a clevis at the bottom which picks up the bottom-rear case through-bolt. If you have a stock oil pump, the "new" mounting holes furnished by the bracket come out pretty close to their stock location in a 3-point case; with a thicker-flanged pump they will of course be further aft and the skidplate may not bolt up without modification.
I've never liked the idea of hanging an engine by one of these things, but if you check them a few times a year and catch any loose hardware or cracks beginning before the whole works drops out on the street they're OK I guess. No such big risk in mounting your skidplate to one.

Marc -

Thanks for the 411 on this idea. I do indeed have a complete thing engine in my 73'. It runs and she prrrrrs like a kitten....I am just not happy with the performance i get out of it. It does not seem to have any getty up...with just me in it i can get it up to 40 mph...My physique (not a cow, but not a skinny minnie either) is built for comfort not speed...i am not sure what to do as far as getting more performance. It was my understanding that i should be able to get the the car upto 60 mph with 2 people in it. When it is myself and my g/f i almost have to get out and push when we hit hills......

Sorry about being ignorant about these issues as i am a relatively a newbie to being and Air Cooled gear head. I am trying to learn as i go.


Thanks

Joe

Marc - - Thanks for the explanation. I too have never understood how an engine skid plate that bolted to the block would protect anything. It reminds me of the guy who sold his gold fillings to pay his dental bill. Stickly a street set up.

K-mann

Jersey Thing wrote:It does not seem to have any getty up...with just me in it i can get it up to 40 mph...

Things were never intended to go fast, they're geared a little lower than bugs and have even worse aerodynamics, but 40MPH? Something ain't right, it should be able to go at least 65. Recheck the basics like throttle cable adjustment and ignition timing, if all seems well there I'd do a compression test. If both engines are healthy, the difference in performance between the Thing & Beetle motors would be insignificant.

Great thanks ---

I am actually going to change out distributor and coil...it seems like they are the oringinal...

Then i am going to check out the valves.

do it the other way around. set the valves first.

exactly Scott. Never change things that are working that can confuse the issue, Valves are easy and can cause and solve issues with a flick of a wrist. K-mann

What would a slipping clutch act like???

T.

Engine running, e-brake set - put the trans in 4th gear and try to drive away as you might normally in 1st, perhaps gassing it a little extra. If the engine doesn't die nearly instantly as the clutch starts to take up, there's no doubt that the clutch is shot.
A somewhat weak, but still serviceable clutch will hook up OK on each upshift if you lift off the gas while shifting like a normal person...if you keep the accelerator pedal floored even a strong clutch may slip momentarily entering the next gear (so don't do that!)

Push gas and the car does not move in proportion to the work units the engine is producing. Clutch disk burn smell. Bad off the line take off with no motor stumble. K-mann