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I posted this on the type 1 forum as well in hopes of getting an answer...

Question one: on my 1971 type 181, the brake lights are remaining on; they do not go off when I press/depress the brake pedal. I disconnected the two pairs of wires that attach to the switches of the master cylinder, and of course the brake lights go out. Can only one of these switches be bad, causing the lights to remain on? I'm assuming that one set of wires to one switch is for the dash "brake warning" light, and the other for the rear brake lights, this correct? If so, which switch is for the brake lights, and which is for the dash warning lights, or does it not matter? The brake pedal rod is not adjusted too tight; I suspected that, and loosened it as much as it would go, and the lights still remain on. Brakes are rock hard, may evn be binding, as the car is a bear to roll back and forth.

Second question: The turn signal light in the speedometer flashes with the emergency flasher operating (all turn signal lights flash correctly), but the dash light only flashes once when I operate the turn signal on the steering column (the turn signal lights are working correctly however). Any idea's befor I go chasing the schematic?

If you still have the factory 3-prong plugs on the M/C wiring harness it's not likely that you have any wires crossed, so yes, you probably have one defective switch that's keeping the brakelights on. Speedy Jim has a diagram that shows how the warning light circuit works here: http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif

If all of the external lamps are operating normally, it sounds to me like you have a flasher with auxiliary KBL terminal and it's dying. The purpose of this terminal is to make the pilot lamp flash in unison with the external t'signals, if you don't mind it operating opposite to them simply piggyback the blue/red KBL wire to the blue 49a wire at the flasher. Mine's been like that for years and still flashes just fine.
You'll get the same symptom if the current draw of the t'signals is lower than normal (from too small of a bulb or a poor ground) so make sure the lights all look right before replacing the flasher or moving the KBL wire.

There are only two wires on each of the two switches; this make a difference?

I'll do the md you suggest with the turn signals.

Bucko wrote:There are only two wires on each of the two switches; this make a difference?

Either your car never had a warning light or someone cheaped out and put in 2-pole switches instead of 3-pole, so it works just like a `67 Beetle.
There should be 3 wires coming down to the M/C area, each splitting off to go to both switches. The black one brings power and the black/red one goes to the main harness for the brakelamps, the red one is for the warning lamp and doesn't need to be connected for the brakelamps to work. The switches are in parallel, each one should have one black wire and one black/red wire going to it and it doesn't matter which wire goes to what terminal on the 2-post switches. If it looks to be connected properly (for a `67 Beetle, anyway) then try pulling one wire off of one switch - if the brakelights work normally, that switch is bad and if the problem still exists reconnect that wire and pull one from the other switch.

I may have failed to mention that this is a 1971 military type 181 that I recently imported into the states. The wiring appears all stock, so I'm suspecting that the German type 181's used the two wire switch's on the master cylinder for this year, and perhaps changed for the ones they "officially" imported to the states begining in 1973.

This 1971 has the older Bus style rear tail light lenses (oval), it also has a headlight switch that has off, dim headlights, and then "normal" glow headlights (again, for military purposes I'm guessing).

I'll try the "pull one wire" tip to see if that makes a difference. I may have a rubber brake line that has swelled too, as the car takes a real "grunt" to move it when in nuetral, perhaps a sign that one or more wheel has it's brakes binding, and therefor causing the master cylinder pressure to stay high. Does this sound like a possibility?

Appretiate the help Marc. I always learn from you.

I also posted this question on the TYPE 1 FORUM, as I know you and other folks who know the answers read and help there too.

Bucko wrote:...I'll try the "pull one wire" tip to see if that makes a difference. I may have a rubber brake line that has swelled too, as the car takes a real "grunt" to move it when in nuetral, perhaps a sign that one or more wheel has it's brakes binding, and therefor causing the master cylinder pressure to stay high. Does this sound like a possibility?...

Yes, it could be that the switches are fine and one of them is just being subjected to abnormal pressure - which means if pulling the wire from one makes the light go out you at least know if it's the front or back circuit. If the master cylinder pushrod has freeplay (should be about 1mm at the pushrod, or ~¼" at the pedal) the compensating ports in the M/C should be relieving the pressure back to the reservoir.

After looking at the schematics found on the BUS forum web site, I think the socket that I thought was a brake warning lamp is really a "map reading light" or a "plug socket" (German schematic I used was 1970 type 181, and the socket in question was labled either "W" and called KARTENLESELAMPE - translates to Map reading lamp" or it was labled "U" and called "STECKDOSE" which translates to "plug socket"). This socket is right above the emergency flasher in the center swing down piece of the dash (piece that has the smaller fuse panel).

So, back to the original fault, I may have a bad switch, or a swelled brake line at one or more wheel(s)