Am I wasting my time?

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:56 am

Greetings One and All -
Sorry I have not been here for such a long time due to getting ready to move into a house with a 2 bay gargage....so needless to say everything has taken a back seat....No pun intened.

My question is this....i went to change the manifold boots and was not sure how to do that...in addition when i got real upclose and personal in the engine compartment I noticed that there were several small rust holes in what i beleive is the air intake manifold.How do i replace the boots and can i patch those holes with the liquid steel for the time being?
And how much of a pain in the azz is it to change out...

thanks

Bucko · Post by **Bucko** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:09 pm

Is it the fatter tubes, or the smaller ones? I'm guessing it's the smaller ones, used to apply exhaust heat to the carb for quick warmup. The thicker tubes will run to the side of the engine, into the heads, between the spark plugs on each side. If these were leaking, I'd say the engine would be running bad, due to intake leaks, causing poor air/fuel mixture to two or more cylinders. The smaller ones run to the back of the engine bay, onto the exhaust muffler by the heads.

To replace the boots with the engine still installed requires you to remove the generator (or alternator), and it's stand. This can be done with the engine still installed in the car, but it will take some time.

Post by **Marc** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:21 pm

You'd have to remove the alternator pedestal to get a new manifold center section in there, but to replace just the boots you should be able to unbolt the preheat pipes from the muffler and remove the nut & washer which secure the manifold to one of the top case studs, then remove the LH endcasting - the manifold should shift to the left just far enough to get the RH end casting off.
If it were me and the center section was going to be replaced I'd pull the engine, it'd take about the same amount of time and less hunching over.
I've never tried patching up a preheat pipe with JB Weld, it might work at least for a while. If the holes are on a straight run you could hoseclamp sheetmetal patches over them; short sheetmetal screws could be cranked into holes you couldn't get a clamp to fit snugly over (if the screw isn't quite big enough try sticking it in through a small wad of steel wool). If you don't have heaterboxes there's no real danger in running it with some small exhaust leaks in the engine compartment.

Bucko · Post by **Bucko** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:10 pm

I tried what Marc suggested on my 73 1600, and could not get enough clearance (shifting everything to the right) to get the left dual port intake removed. I was also concerned that I'd drop one of the nuts or it's lock washer that holds the manifold to the head into the spark plug hole area, potentially falling into the spark plug hole if the plug was ever removed.

Like Marc said, remove the engine for this job. I don't think sheet metal screws in the preheat pipe would be a pretty site inside the engine compartment, unless your on a real tight budget. Id bet that the preheat pipe is plugged with years of carbon anyhow. Buy a good used one (they have been posted for sale in the used parts section here).

If your going to do something in the way of a fix, I'd do it right.

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:15 am

Thanks all...for the 411. Sorry for the untimely response as things have gotten a bit out of control in my life. There is now some sense of calmness and a return to "Normalcy"...

The problem i have is the boots, I can not seem to get the intake manifolds to free themselves so i can change the boots. I suppose i have to take the altenator off to do this.

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:19 am

Just thought of something else...Maybe i should just drop the engine out of it and rebuild from the ground up. I have a 73' beetle that i have removed the engine and placed back in several times. How is dropping the engine out of the 181 different from the beetle and how much of a pain in the arse is it. I just purchased those bug me videos....is there anything different and if so what and how difficult.

Thanks

Bucko · Post by **Bucko** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 8:12 pm

No more different than removing from a Beetle. If fact, I think it's easier to remove the engine out of a 181, as there is alot more space for the engine to "move around" in when the bolts/nuts are removed allowing the engine to be pulled back from the transaxle.

All of the other things are the same (disconnect battery gound, remove gas pedal cable from carb, remove gas line, remove generator/alternator wiring, etc).

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:33 am

On the Thing I always pull the distributor (after marking its location) prior to removing the engine. It always tends to run into the rear of the body.. I plan to cut the rear apron pieces on both my Things and have them reattach with Dzuz fasteners. If you had that piece gone, pulling a Thing motor would be like doing it in a Baja..

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:05 am

Great!!!! Thanks all for the 411. I am in the process of getting my main mode of tranportation in order. I do however have the new SCAT push rod tubes and oil cooler for my std beetle...once i get the motor back in i can concentrate on the 181 again. Unfortunetly I have been lacking in the attention\luv is sorely warrants...and rightfully so.

I also just want to take a moment and wish everyone a very Happy\Healthy holiday season.

Joe