"Hot VW's" Articles?
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
"Hot VW's" Articles?
Hey guys did you see that "Hot VW's had a article on leak down testing and one on Drilling gas holes for the piston rings? Does that help seating the ring better? Looked like you drill from the top down to the inside of the top ring gap about five or so holes? bill
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DeathBus
- Posts: 1176
- Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:01 am
Saw that article, way to much overkill.
Your rings basically seat within the first 1000 or so miles. You can help them seat by properly breaking in your engine. After your initial run in of the engine, you should take your vehicle up to 4k rpm and let off your pedal, doing this several times will help your rings seat properly. Have used this method alot and it works perfectly.
Taken from Type2.com
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Engine Break-in
by Joe Fournier
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Here's what I do for break-in:
Immediately upon starting, run engine up to 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Watch oil pressure and temp gauges. You're letting parts machine themselves to each other for preliminary fit.
Drain oil while it's hot. Replace before starting again. If time allows, let engine cool and check valves.
Inspect drained oil for metal particles. React accordingly; check for magnetic properties to distinguish aluminum and brass from iron. Aluminum = bearings...some wear is expected, but no chunks. Brass = timing gear or valve guides. Shouldn't find much of this, if any. Iron/steel = crank, cam, rings, cylinders...definitely no chunks, but I'd expect *some* of this in breakin oil.
Run engine for 5-10 miles doing the drive up to 55; then wind (down-shift) down to 20 mph...at least 5 times...as many as 10. You're letting parts further machine themselves to each other with the emphasis being on the cylinders, which must machine themselves under load because their position/geometry is slightly different at different RPMs...thus, the variance in RPMs and the downshifting. I don't fully understand this, but Bob Hoover instructed me to do this and I do it religiously. I consider this as important if not more important that the 20 minute breakin.
Let sit over night. Check valves.
I record all valve settings (per valve) and maintain that information for the first 300 miles. I check and adjust valves at the following times:
after 20 minute break-in
after 5-10 mile break-in
at 25 miles
at 50 miles
at 150 miles
at 300 miles
If I notice trends, I check more often. Since work is about 25 miles round trip, I usually get pretty close on these.
At 300 miles, pull the engine and retorque the heads. This is a step many people skip, but I'm not inclined to. It will tell you a lot about how your engine is running and is neccessary to assure engine longevity and reliability. It gives you a chance to tighten up tinware and do those things that you meant to do but were in too much of a hurry to do the first time around.
Your rings basically seat within the first 1000 or so miles. You can help them seat by properly breaking in your engine. After your initial run in of the engine, you should take your vehicle up to 4k rpm and let off your pedal, doing this several times will help your rings seat properly. Have used this method alot and it works perfectly.
Taken from Type2.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Engine Break-in
by Joe Fournier
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's what I do for break-in:
Immediately upon starting, run engine up to 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Watch oil pressure and temp gauges. You're letting parts machine themselves to each other for preliminary fit.
Drain oil while it's hot. Replace before starting again. If time allows, let engine cool and check valves.
Inspect drained oil for metal particles. React accordingly; check for magnetic properties to distinguish aluminum and brass from iron. Aluminum = bearings...some wear is expected, but no chunks. Brass = timing gear or valve guides. Shouldn't find much of this, if any. Iron/steel = crank, cam, rings, cylinders...definitely no chunks, but I'd expect *some* of this in breakin oil.
Run engine for 5-10 miles doing the drive up to 55; then wind (down-shift) down to 20 mph...at least 5 times...as many as 10. You're letting parts further machine themselves to each other with the emphasis being on the cylinders, which must machine themselves under load because their position/geometry is slightly different at different RPMs...thus, the variance in RPMs and the downshifting. I don't fully understand this, but Bob Hoover instructed me to do this and I do it religiously. I consider this as important if not more important that the 20 minute breakin.
Let sit over night. Check valves.
I record all valve settings (per valve) and maintain that information for the first 300 miles. I check and adjust valves at the following times:
after 20 minute break-in
after 5-10 mile break-in
at 25 miles
at 50 miles
at 150 miles
at 300 miles
If I notice trends, I check more often. Since work is about 25 miles round trip, I usually get pretty close on these.
At 300 miles, pull the engine and retorque the heads. This is a step many people skip, but I'm not inclined to. It will tell you a lot about how your engine is running and is neccessary to assure engine longevity and reliability. It gives you a chance to tighten up tinware and do those things that you meant to do but were in too much of a hurry to do the first time around.
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GDRBO
- Posts: 2574
- Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2000 12:01 am
The gas pressure holes are mainly for high RPM race motors. Yes it is done to improve sealing. Rings tend to flutter and not seal well at high (over 5000) RPM. The small amount of combustion gas directed to the back of the ring forces it against the cylinder wall. It is NOT needed for your daily driver motor and has nothing to do with break-in of a fresh motor.
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
Break in is the key!
It is funny how important break-in is! I dont think people think its much of a concern and changing the oil right away! I think from working on motorcycles and the break-in of those I seen such a difference from it I knew how much a concern it is! I know checking the head lugs is a big one to check but what a pain removing the motor and pulling the intake to get the tins off! I always wanted to cut the tins in two halfs and make them splitable without pulling the intakes maybe put a "H" seal outta tin or rubber or maybe drill plug holes where the head lugs are and put those round rubber or metal plug caps in? It just stinks having to pull the motor just to do the head lugs! I guess you could pull the intakes and do it in the car but what a pain that would be! I hate the thought of having to get all those seals right again along with making sure all the lines are put back right, arrrrr! I'm really thinking of trying that hole drill idea on a backup tin set! Bill
p.s. I wonder why they dont drill new pistons with the gas hole now from the factorys?
p.s. I wonder why they dont drill new pistons with the gas hole now from the factorys?