cant shift in to 1st wile rolling

wpddjsky · Post by **wpddjsky** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:20 pm

i cant shift in to 1st when im doing 15 or more mph i have my clutch alltheway in and it will not let me it dosent grind its like thes a block on it is this normal.

500LbGorilla · Post by **500LbGorilla** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:34 pm

Shifting into first at 15mph? Why?

jermphil · Post by **jermphil** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 7:16 pm

if it isn't normal it should be. i think most had some type of block on the trans so you don't blow it up. theres a name for it, but hell if i know it.

why would you want to down shift into 1 at a higher speed? you'll kill the bug. just be patient, don't use your gears to slow down, they make brakes for that.

The Toolman · Post by **The Toolman** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 7:29 pm

Hard on syncro rings in tranny trying to shift to first at that speed also.

Ronnie

wpddjsky · Post by **wpddjsky** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 7:58 pm

Thx

I knew i was right to use my brakes 100% of the time to slow down at least i know that ther is some sort of block.

500LbGorilla · Post by **500LbGorilla** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 8:18 pm

Downshifting to 1st for slowing is not great practice, but 3rd and 2nd should be ok. 2nd is good from say 20-25 down.

Post by **Marc** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 8:24 pm

There's no "block". With a really good synchro you can stuff it into 1st at 20-25MPH but that's not advisable.
Learn to double-clutch and you can drive a tranny with NO synchros - provided you don't try to downshift to a lower gear at a roadspeed above the engine's RPM capability.

Brakes are a lot cheaper to service than clutches/transmissions/engines. Don't be afraid to use them.

wpddjsky · Post by **wpddjsky** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 9:23 pm

but its realy odd it seems like the engen dosent disengage untill i show down i can be doing like 20 and try to push it in to 1st and ther is no grinding its just like the gear is not ther it like stop frome going in to it untill i slow down then it can be shifted so i realy dont know im just asking if its normal

jermphil · Post by **jermphil** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 10:31 pm

syncro..yes..thats the technical word i wasa lookin fer. block wasn't the right term, but i couldn't think of what the right one was..you guys knew what i meant

kmartshopper · Post by **kmartshopper** » Wed Sep 28, 2005 11:51 pm

if shes not grinding ,, then call it healthy.... down shift to 3 and to 2.... sure... but try and do it less for stopping power and more to keep the fan blowing... its what i do, but i usually down to 3 and ride it then neutral to the light...

on the freeway however theres that element of traffic tie ups and gridlock......

i usually space out a bit and sit her in 1 gear constant.... ive got this thing with paranoia regarding the clutch in the beetle... shes a good clutch,, but nver the less.

SPEAKING OF CLutCH... i noticed that my ghia grinds a little full clutch and shifting,,, but if i ease it out of gear (easy does it if times right of course) when gas comes off, and clutch down to next,, no grind.. i figure something is going,, and hesitating on the clutch between gears may ease the pain of a new clutch any time soon... dont know a heck of a lot about sync. ...

g

The Toolman · Post by **The Toolman** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 5:51 am

dont know a heck of a lot about sync. ...

Little brass rings that stop the gear from turning so it will engage without grinding. Kinda hard to explain without having a tranny apart in front of ya to show you.

Ronnie

Post by **Marc** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 9:02 am

Ever seen how a bicycle coaster brake works? Same concept, by shoving a metal ring with a tapered I.D. over a similar external taper you force the two parts to try to match speeds. The greater the speed differential the more effort it takes and the more wear you'll cause, so you shouldn't be trying to engage a gear when you aren't at the appropriate road speed for it.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techce ... ticle.html

Can Drive Soon · Post by **Can Drive Soon** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 5:17 pm

Bling Bling

Synchronizers
Manual transmissions in modern passenger cars use synchronizers to eliminate the need for double-clutching. A synchro's purpose is to allow the collar and the gear to make frictional contact before the dog teeth make contact. This lets the collar and the gear synchronize their speeds before the teeth need to engage, like this:

The cone on the blue gear fits into the cone-shaped area in the collar, and friction between the cone and the collar synchronize the collar and the gear. The outer portion of the collar then slides so that the dog teeth can engage the gear.

^Stuff taken from howstuffworks.com

Hope you learned a thing or two bout syncs.

wpddjsky · Post by **wpddjsky** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 5:18 pm

Im thinking i cant shif in to firs when im rolling cus my engen is not running. I took it out to day and it died evory time i wold stop and then i lost my pullie bolt and my pully is now cracked and ther is oil all over my engine. so i had a bad day with it i will have to fix my idiling problem and try shifting in to first at 10mph and sutch.

Post by **Marc** » Thu Sep 29, 2005 5:27 pm

What kind of pulley? I've found that the 4-slotted type cracks much more frequently than 3- or 5-slotted ones, apparently due to some harmonic effect. The pulley bolt coming loose is often an indicator of a loose flywheel glandnut - you'd better check the endplay at a minimum (I'd recommend removing the engine and taking a good look, if the flywheel has come loose the dowelpin holes in the crank & flywheel will no-doubt be damaged, if you catch it early enough you might be able to get away without major surgery).