Bronze Idler Arm Bushings

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:02 am

I just found a source for bronze idler arm bushings for a Super Beetle. Mid America Motorworks offers two different bronze bushings one for the 1971 - 1972 1/2 Super Beetle and one for 1972 1/2 - 1979's. I am not sure which one of these will fit the Type 4, but surely one of them will. If someone buys one let us know which one works.

They are $49.99 plus shipping, less than I just paid to have one made.

WWW.mamotorworks.com

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:37 am

Ah, excellent find! Good question, though...Which one?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:47 pm

The 1979....should be the correct part #. If possibel...can you find out which of those part #'s starts with a 411 pre-fix? The one that does...is the correct one.
From what I remember...the bronze bushing is the same part number as the bonded rubber version...but has a letter code change at the end. The $49 price....is straight up. I bought my bronze one for $45 three years ago.

Ray

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:53 pm

I don't think these are factory, I think they must be having these made?

This should be the direct link:

http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=3.67.4820

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 9:15 pm

Aircooled.Net can supply bronze bushing for Super Beetle/Type 4 idler arms as well.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 9:40 pm

Excellent, but are we sure it is the '72.5-'79 bushing we need?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 5:53 am

Those definately "look" correct in teh picture. For sure...it is the lat super bushing that uses the 411 part #. I would order one if stock is low. They should last forever. I install a self locking (nylock) nut and a wave /spring wahser on mine. Once they are pressed into the housing...I drill through teh housing and the bushing and install a grease fitting. These are easy to press in. I put mine in in less than minute using a pice of plate and a vise. Ray

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:24 pm

Hey, did you have to use heat to press the bushing in? bill

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Nov 01, 2005 2:48 pm

Nope! slid right in. It probably has about .002" interference. Just de-burr the bottom edge, seat it squarely with a rubber mallet, mount it squarely in a vice between two pieces of flat metal plate...or plastic plate...so you don't mar the flange at the top...and close teh vice. It works fine. Ray

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:49 am

Damn, I ordered one, but got an e-mail saying they are on back order.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:18 am

I was just reading that this place has all sorts of backorder problems, maybe I'll cancel and try to get it from AC.net

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Fri Nov 04, 2005 12:15 pm

Well whadya know, guess they weren't out, I just got mine at lunch today...

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Fri Nov 04, 2005 6:31 pm

Hey Uber, great news on the bushing! Are you going to do the Ray install?
Let us know how it goes, bill

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Fri Nov 04, 2005 8:22 pm

I'm going to try to do the whole Ray suspension overhaul/improvement program to the wagon. Econoline van front shocks on the back (maybe Bilsteins if they are available and I can afford it). Of course, I've got the bronze idler arm bushing now. I also have some Quantum/4000 strut inserts (got a good deal on a couple of sets of Gabriel "Gas Ryder" premium strut inserts, hope they will work OK, maybe upgrade to KYB later on), Golf struts, and some of course some extra Type 4 struts. I just need to get all the struts measured and disassembled, then get all the extra stuff on the Golf struts cut off, then everything cleaned up, measured, and welded back together. I don't have all the tools yet, but luckily there is a welding/fabrication/machine shop right next door, as well as a metal shop at work where the guys might help me. Then there is the whole T-frame modification for added caster- sounds reasonably straightforward from Ray's description. The poly bushings should be fairly easy. The tie rod ends and strut mounts are easily found.. I've got some NOS ball joints also. The only thing I'm not really clear on is the rebuild/improvement of the center link. Ray, have you got some pictures of what you did to MGVW's? Denver412 already put a sway bar on the rear from a sedan. Ray's double sway bar setup sounds like an intriguing idea. I'm gathering all the parts and will modify some that are pulled off of the parts sedan, that way I can install everything at once with a minimum of down-time.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 5:24 am

Drop me a p-mail and I will e-mail some digital pictures. Also I'll drop my number so we can talk.
We will needto chat a little on teh rabbit strut variation. Its simple...but you may have to go to the "yards"...withdial caliper in hand to make sure3 which strut housings you buy. They are all good...but as many stamped steel parts go...there is variation. Having .005"+ variation is not a huge deal as you can sand/clearance the outside to be pressed into the 412 strut housing. But if you get a pair that is larger...it may get to be a lot of work.
I can also e-mail you the "stub method" blue-print. That one has minor risks...that are easy to overcome with diligent attention to detail....but is so fast and easy.

I am needing to cast some uethane this coming week...at work. I am trying to get time to slip some of my own molds in

.

The important parts that are not widely known...are the radius arm bushings...and teh small centering rings that go between them. Ray