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A friend of mine has a 1.9 water boxer core that he got for the FI bits, cooling system, and heads. I have access to a mill & operator. I am willing to experience a little pain.

I expect for finish work and stud bosses I would be shipping the case to WA but I would like to do as much as I can.

I have most of the internal parts to build a 78.4x90.5 type-1. Crank/flywheel/cam-lifters/Cima Bs/Heads(big valve 040 Headflow Master) and misc but no case or rods. I am going to buy a 1 ½ heaterbox & sidewinder as this is to be a mild street motor. If I can't daily drive this, I am not going to bother.

I assume I will want to run upright air cooling, and I have the Cali-manual and German Dog House tins. But what do you do for an oil cooler and not delete the stock filter? This is for a ghia so plenty of engine compartment room, but I would like it to appear to be just another boring ACVW with dual IDFs.

I know cost wise starting with type-1 case (old mag/inferior aluminum) just makes dollar sense. But if spent some money retro fitting a 1.9, I maybe better in the long term?

Oil plumbing?
Case Prep?
Shroud mods?
Ball park costs?

Good idea or bad?

Side show, go to www.rockyjennings.com go to left side, down to drag cars, then down to mickys drag car. Look at all the pics. hope this helps you. Rocky

I searched this forum quite a bit in the last week. That is the shop in WA that I figured I would have to get the final machine work at.

The pictures show a ¼ mile car, that is of no use to me. I drive as far as 1,000 miles a weekend. If I was a drag racer I would not bother with an oil cooler at all.

I was a little turned off with deleting of the factory filter (as part of the oil cooler conversion). I step forward, one step back. Yea that would work but is that the only solution?

It seems stupid to use a bug style one bolt crankshaft compared to a 5 bolt bus style, hence the question. But with adapter rings…

So my theory is that if the wbx case was a good idea, someone here would have one as a daily driver.

Side show, Did you look at the oil cooler we used on the steet engine. Go back and check out all the pics. of Mickys car it shows a oil cooler adapter mounted to the side of the waterboxer block using a dog house fan housing. Micky used this engine on his daily driver. If you have ?? give me a call 1-509-525-7721 Rocky

I’ve been looking hard at that site, it sucks that at work I have great bandwidth but too many interruptions. At home dial up.

That looks like a type-4 cooler to me, did that conversion on my truck. Being a type-1 case I also did the traditional full flow to add a system-1.

By the time you move the studs, sleeve the lifter bores, mill the jackets off, deck the cylinder spigots and get adaptor rings, convert to an oil cooler, sleeve the lifter bores, and the other little misc. things; you will have alot of cash invested. If you have the capacity to do some of the work, you might be able to build a MILD streeter off a wbx. Keep the stock cam and lifters, and use ratio rockers. Get a stock reground 2.1 crank for a cheeep stroker crank. If you are driving daily, I say use 90.5 mahles, no bigger unless you have the coin for nickies or squishies...that will get you a 1955cc that would be swell with some 40x35 valves and mild port job. For a flywheel you could use a t4 conversion flywheel, or use the stock one if you see this post http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=81424
use Rocky's oil cooler conversion, or a big old mesa with a fan if you want overkill.

If you are only after a mild "small" engine, use a AS41 t-1 case. The oxy is a nice case if you are goning to use it for a big cc engine.
Don't walk over the bridge for water...

I have build H2O to air engines 82 X 90.5 for lowered split Buses because of no sump hanging down. Thats one of the best parts of the waterboxer block, It has a 1.5qt. sump built in. 4.5 qts.total. If you just want cheap, Yes the Bug style case is for you. Remember the waterboxer block is DIE CAST NOT SAND CAST like all the Brazil aluminum cases!! Rocky

Just start off with a 2.1 engine you get a stroker crank for free and its a german forging not some #?@?*?%? china crank! Rocky

Well I picked this up (gotta return the heads and pulley). The back story is it had pulled a head stud and retired. Dunno both head gaskets were missing along with the push rods tubes, valve train, dip stick, clutch, pulley.

According to the case number it is a D so that means 40hp right (D H 00344)? Took a lifter out and I'm guessing it is a hydro type-4 sized.

Uggg decisions; find my snap ring pliers or use a sawzall & ax to take a closer look at the bottom end.

Well I split the case to take a better look around. The thrust bearing has an odd I shape to the pin hole and an od of 70mm. The rod bearings also seemed loose as they fell out of the rods with no proding.

It is a single relief case, single thrust cam bearing, not exactly bug like but close. A fuel pump intermediate flange fits fine, drain plug had thread stuck to it. I don't see a boss for a thermostat bracket, but plenty of meat. I don't see bosses for the under the pulley tin.

I find no evidence of pulled head stud, the studs are so firm I suspect somebody probably stripped the weird closed end nuts.

The wbx uses a slightly buldged design, not counter weighted like the aftermarket bug cranks. Letting DPR take a welder to a 69mm 1.9 crank, I got back one with even more counter weights and reworked to 78mm. It looks more bug like now, but still has the WBX mains and crank but.

500$ exchange 23.4lbs .10/std

This is the same core case I started with...something seems different.

This thing is 41.6lbs, wow that is the near what the sand cast is.

Did Rocky machine your case?

Yeah Rocky did the work, I need to send him a few barrels after I figure out deck and he still has the dipstick and rings.
Work is going slowly but I think I saved a ton of effort by not teaching myself how to use a mill.