Hi,
I've media blasted my '63 bug shell using a pressure pot blaster (off ebay), Its done a great job getting the paint off and getting it back to good bare metal. However there are still some very small pinholes of rust - will it be okay to just etch prime over these or should I put on some rust converter like metal ready on first?...the rust really is very light
thanks Paul.
Bare metalled shell - pinholes of rust?
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Stray Catalyst
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:42 am
Re: Bare metalled shell - pinholes of rust?
If you have the welding gear, you might as well put metal back where the rust has removed it... those holes (small though they are) are the car cancer you'll deeply regret in a year or so, even with rust converters.
Stray
Stray
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corgi
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:29 pm
Re: Bare metalled shell - pinholes of rust?
sorry stray, I think pinholes was the wrong word - more like small dots of rust rather than actual holes. Can't really grind it down as it would thin the surrounding metal out too much which is in good condition. Will the etch primer deal with the rust?
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doc
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:38 pm
Re: Bare metalled shell - pinholes of rust?
Stray is right. Every bit of the rust has to go.
If the rust doesn't go all the way through, you can grind the metal carefully to remove it. Even if you have some thin spots, it'll be better to grind the rust out and go back with a very thin layer of bondo after a dose of primer/etcher.
If the rust is all the way through, you need to cut it out and replace the metal. It's just the only way to fix it right.
If you're not up on the welding and you don't have a ton to do, then finding a local weld shop to do the welding shouldn't be very expensive. Especially if you do all the prep work and all they have to do is weld. The paint part could be done with a rattle can. Finish painting will likely mean painting the whole piece to make it look right. But even that may be reasonably priced if you do all the prep and the painter only has to finish sand and paint.
Rust removal is a job where the advice always winds up the same. Completely get rid of it.
Good luck. Keep us posted on progress.
doc
If the rust doesn't go all the way through, you can grind the metal carefully to remove it. Even if you have some thin spots, it'll be better to grind the rust out and go back with a very thin layer of bondo after a dose of primer/etcher.
If the rust is all the way through, you need to cut it out and replace the metal. It's just the only way to fix it right.
If you're not up on the welding and you don't have a ton to do, then finding a local weld shop to do the welding shouldn't be very expensive. Especially if you do all the prep work and all they have to do is weld. The paint part could be done with a rattle can. Finish painting will likely mean painting the whole piece to make it look right. But even that may be reasonably priced if you do all the prep and the painter only has to finish sand and paint.
Rust removal is a job where the advice always winds up the same. Completely get rid of it.
Good luck. Keep us posted on progress.
doc