CV boot split

[Will8]

Away from my garage, CV boot is split, new boot on order

What tools do I need to purchase?
Generic advice seems to be
Dead blow hammer (tbh, the only kind of hammer I don't already own!)
Circlip pliers (which I already have in abundance, will needle nose pliers work for this applicaton?)
Some kind of tool to do up the straps - what kind, can I use anything else?

What is recommended to clean out the old grease?

Is there any one-use hardware on the van that needs replacing that won't come with the boot kit (lock washers?)

Not having looked closely, does the driveshaft plug a hole in the gearbox which will lead to all the all pouring over me when I remove it (been there with a Rover 200)

Anything else in the way of recommendations to make the job go easier or things I may have overlooked?


[No noises as yet from the CV joint, noticed some grease on the underside of van when replacing the bearing in the starter.]

[busman78]

Need: Triple square socket if you have the 12 point socket head screws, a 6mm allen head if they are six sided, a tub of moly grease, circlip pliers although it can be done with needle nose in a pinch with patience. Can't think of a good purpose for a dead blow hammer, don't worry about the small clamp for the boot, I don't install them and don't get any leaks, but a pair of dikes will crimp the clamp. You will need a roll of paper towels and three pairs of nitrile gloves.

The trans flange has a plug cap so the oil will not leak out.

Unless the old grease is contaminated with dirt or clumpy from water getting in just wipe off what you can and pack the cv with fresh grease.

[Marc]

You can buy a replacement boot that has to be clamped to the old metal cap, but they're also made in a 1-piece version - you get them bare (211 501 149, under $10) or in a kit that comes with new bolts, grease, and snapring (251 598 201, under $20):



One caveat, the three brackets that go between each pair of CV bolts may need slight grinding to clear the humps on the new-style cap.

[busman78]

Does anybody actually sell just the boot? I have not seen a boot available since the last century.

[Marc]

VW changed the OEM ones over to the 1-piece style c1972 IIRC, but there's probably some NOS boot-only type (211 501 151) laying around somewhere; Rockford aftermarket ones also come this way.

[Will8]

Thanks guys, will shelve the dead bow hammer idea and see how I get on with the needle nose pliers.

I think the bolts were allen socket head when I spied underneath so I should be OK with the traveling toolkit.

The boot kit is already on order, so I'll chack back in if I have any problems orto let you all know if it went to plan.

Cheers
Will

[Manziefive]

I know this is not an answer to your original question, but the Neoprene Heavy Duty boots from Bus-boys.com are about $6.50, made of very shinny durable material that did not crack or split on me. I highly recommend these.

[Runamuck Bus]

I have read where this is a very messy job and that you may require more grease than is supplied with a kit. The suggestions that I remember include - lots of paper towels, vinyl/nitrile gloves, easy & quick access to a trash bag. Thoroughly clean the bolts, use proper torque (I don't know at the moment), and re-check the tightness after xxx miles (again, I don't remember the exact recommendation).

[Will8]

CV boot fitted, no drama, actually found that the big pliers were better then the small pliers as they have flat backs.

Good call about the paper towels and gloves - I guess you can get by with only three pairs of gloves if the car is on a ramp in a clean garage - sat on the ground in a dirty carparking space I had to change a number of gloves which got contaminated with grit, but I think the joint is back on without contamination.

Only problem I have is I don't seem to have my 1/4 ->3/8 conversion piece, so I haven't yet torqued the bolts...

on my way to buy a new one now.


I would add the following advice to the thread:

The circlip is on the outside of the CV joint, so easy to get to and not requiring circlip pliers to remove

You are best loosening all the bolts on the diff before you loosening those on the wheel - else you'll end up turning the diff
rather than the bolts!