how to wire up a volt gauge

[VW_Man_87]

i was wondering where should i wire in the positive side of the volt gauge to read that the alternator is producing charge voltage. the way i have it now it reads loads, like my lights, etc... but wont go any higher than 12 in daytime

thanks in advance
Jeremy

[Dale M.]

Typical voltage gauge (not a ammeter) the positive terminal is hooked to any switched (off/on with key) positive voltage source and negative side to ground....

Voltmeters read "system" voltage not charging or load voltage anf it should be approximately (allowing for a little system voltage drop between battery and fuse panel) the same all through the system.... If you gauge does not get over 12 volts you have either a defective gauge, poor wiring or a charging system problem. Best to check gauge against know quality meter to verify its accuracy... A healthy "system" and proper reading gauge should be in range of 14 volts...

Dale

[VW_Man_87]

i think i just have it wired in the wrong area, alt w/ internal regulator is brand new, i was just wondering where is the optimal place to wire in the gauge at

and when i have my lights on it reads around like 10 volts

[Dale M.]

You have a problem system if it reads 10 volts and engine is running....

You should not see more than 1 volt drop between battery (measured across battery terminals) and anywhere in system....

Dale

[VW_Man_87]

that i know, its only when i have the headlights on high beam, and around 10 to 11 around low beam lights, and it moves when i have the hazards or turn signals on. i prolly need a full rewire of the whole car, but i dont have the funds

[Dale M.]

One major issue is wiring is about 35 years old..... Another problem area is fuse panel....

Disconnect battery (either terminal).... And climb into front trunk area with a handful of rags, some fine emery cloth and a and tube of dielectric grease and a pair of pliers.... Remove one set of wires off a set of terminal on fuse block at a time, polish fuse block terminals with emery clot to bright brass, and the coat with dielectric grease, also so contact areas of push on terminals and use pliers to slightly increase tension on terminals and reassemble, yes you need to do all terminals on fuse panel... The enemy here is 35 years of corrosion and oxidation on the terminals.... Do this anywhere on car where you have a electrical connection.... Also ro through all the grounds for all lighting, remove screw in body, sand or grind surface till you have clean steel, and polish terminal and coat with dielectric grease and reassemble connection.... Wire does not wear out, but the connection loose their tension and suffer from oxidation, and that is where problems start....

You may also want a copy of wiring diagram handy if you get confused with the colors and connections...

Dale

[Chris V]

One major issue is wiring is about 35 years old...and use pliers to slightly increase tension on terminals...

Make sure to have more terminals and strippers & crimpers handy at the very least...many of those old terminals like to break when taunted.

Fuse panel terminals are also known to break - so it's best to have some splitters or another panel for parts handy just-in-case.

[Dale M.]

IF necessary replacement fuse blocks are available (still) for most early VW products)...

https://shop.westcoastmetric.com/search.php?desc=fuse

Dale

[Misel948]

Attach the voltmeter negative to a good ground and probe the wires at the connector. When a wire is found that is hot (has power) with the key off, hold the probe there and turn the key on. Keep watching the meter

Misel