Problem of the day. Post it up!

[MarioVelotta]

Sounds like Seattle

[56speedster]

Hey Speedster

I have never run a MBC so I don't know how they act. I use MS and an boost solenoid. I wonder if this one is just opening more than your last gate (louder). It is after all just a large exhaust leak pre turbo. I can hear mine open for sure.

As for the boost peak and dip, where is your WG plumbed from? At the collector or one cylinder like the CB header?

WG is plumbed at the collector. I will try installing per the diagram and report back. Will be a few days before I get home.

Tried plumbing per the diagram today and hit 22psi and boost limit in MS. Think I'll just pick up another cheap gate and get rid of the Tial as it shouldn't be that difficult to get it to work right....As it is now, I have to peak to 20 to hold 15psi.

[shag55]

That's not good! With my tubosmart I set it to 15 and it doea not go over.

[56speedster]

That's not good! With my tubosmart I set it to 15 and it doea not go over.

With my old gate it never spiked above the setpoint. I don't get it but I'm tossing the Tial....

[MarioVelotta]

Dang man.. try running without the controller hooked up to see if it its still spiking just on the spring.

[56speedster]

Dang man.. try running without the controller hooked up to see if it its still spiking just on the spring.

Tried it and it does. Funny thing is it supposed to be a 14psi spring and it peaks to 14 for a split second then opens and is LOUD and then holds 9psi.

My old cheap gate would hold 15 and even more without a glitch. The cheap gate was also quiet which I prefer as my exhaust tone is perfect and when the Tial gate opens, it sounds like a Honduhh fart can exploded. Bummer I sold the cheap gate but I'll get another one.

[56speedster]

Decided to remove and disassemble the Tial gate today and found 3 issues: (Issue # 3 is not really an issue but....)

Issue # 1 - The diaphragm was pinched between the upper and lower body. Luckily the pinch was only 1/2" wide.

Issue # 2 - 1 of the 4 set screws that holds the diaphragm to the valve was missing.

Issue # 3 - The box that the gate came in lists a spring rating of 0.9 bar (13.05psi) which is a large green spring and the spring that is installed is a large red spring which is 0.8 bar (11.60 psi). No big deal since I'm running a boost controller and I doubt that the person I purchased this from knew about this either as I've done business with him before and everything went perfect.

Somewhere along the line the spring was changed from what was packaged by Tial and during reassembly, the diaphragm was pinched. Where the 4th set screw went is a mystery. I installed a new set screw and reassembled the gate making sure that the diaphragm was not being pinched and reinstalled the gate to the exhaust.

Took it for a short spin around the factory and not only does it hold boost like it is supposed to do but the exploding fart can sound is gone which makes me a happy camper. I had planned on getting rid of the gate and would have if it were still as loud as it was before I repaired it but will keep it and save that money for something else.....like gas.

[MarioVelotta]

I PMed you speedster

So my motor ate the rear main bearing. Had to get the case line bored. Also the lifters where going but the cam is perfect. my builder is almost certain it has happened because I push in the clutch on startup. It will be hard habit to break because all the guys at work park cars in gear so it's natural thing to do....

I ordered a new cam and lifters from Shag, sent my PP and flywheel out to get resurfaced while apart too. The KEP stage 2 was starting to cup a bit. I have heard once resurfaced that doesn't happen again but we will see. I still have to clean out all my oil likes and cooler now. I really dislike doing that.

While this is really going to set me back a month or two while everything is out I am thinking I will get the CB turbo manifolds ported and put on as well as up the size of my throttle body and possibly relocate my inter cooler radiator to a more efficient location so it cools my water faster.

[turbobaja]

Good to hear your engine is on the mend Mario. Can you give up the details of the cam you went with?

[56speedster]

You'll be in the 10's this season! Looking forward to seeing your next timeslip.

Hopefully I don't jinx myself by saying so but the Speedster has never been more reliable since I installed the kit you sold me almost 2 years ago. Fires right up and runs better than a Swiss watch!

[GRMACVW]

I PMed you speedster

So my motor ate the rear main bearing. Had to get the case line bored. Also the lifters where going but the cam is perfect. my builder is almost certain it has happened because I push in the clutch on startup. It will be hard habit to break because all the guys at work park cars in gear so it's natural thing to do....

Thats news to me that pushing the clutch in on start up can do that. What are you supposed to do turn in over in neutral without depressing the clutch? Im very interested in this because I start all my cars this way.

[MarioVelotta]

The rear main is one of the last places to get oil. Plus I run a heavy pressure plate further putting stress on the bearing. So when you push the clutch and start the car it can over heat relatively quick. That's my take on it.

[Clonebug]

Check out this gallery of a guy that does rear main mods to handle heavy clutch loads...

I found it kind of interesting...a few rows down is the bearing mod.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_ ... ts=summary

[MarioVelotta]

That is awesome! Thanks Art

[Clonebug]

There is a thread on a mod for the pulley side oil check valve that is where I found it in case that interests you too.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475688