extended tie rods for 1303 - flip kit now possible

[Tine]

It has been about a year since i made this modification to my '74 2 bolt 1303, and a full season later i can say that it works and is roadworthy.



As i lowered my superbeetle with kerscher adjustable coilovers, i had experienced a lot of bump steer and some contact between control arms and rack&pinion; steering rods and chassis aswell. also, as i looked all over the internet people were unable to use steering rod flip-it kits with 2-bolters because of interference between steering rods and sway bar in some positions.



As i was not happy with the minimum height of my vehicle while still maintaining some of the suspension travel, i looked into possible solutions. I came up with custom made, longer ball joints and use of standard flip-it kit, which was now possible. The neck of ball joint is longer by 20mm, which is just enough that keeps the arms from bottoming out, steering rods from touching sway bar in any position and helps to form proper geometry when combined with the flip-it kit.



This is what it looks like, compared to stock ball joint:







Here it is, mounted:







This is the closest possible position of the steering rod and sway bar



http://shrani.si/f/3n/CM/4ZhjV5Rf/dscn0230.jpg



The steering rod and control arms are virtually parallel, which eliminates most of the bump steer







Here is the height of the car, could still go lower for shows:









So after a year of everyday usage, i can say that this solution works great; i could also install shorter bumpstops on the coilovers to further extend the suspension travel. Since these modifications has been made, i have never experienced any bottoming out.



If anyone is interested, i could probably arrange manufacturing of some additional sets of these ball joints, the price for a pair would be in the ballpark of 100 eur + p&p; probably a little less when group buy could be organised. Contact me at email: tine.wolf [at] amis.net .



Cheers,



Tine

edit: tie rod and ball joint mixup

[JWP]

So is it the longer ball joint that raised the spindle up to achieve this extra clearance? I don't have a super, but I'd like to know because if I ever get the right opportunity I'd get one just for the way I'm doing my build.

[Chris V]

You got it JWP, lower control arm ball-joint...Tie-rod in English would be the piece from the steering rack to the steering arm.

You see these and similar designs in the Rabbit/924/944 world...It's a good compromise for this design, but their are other designs which use more suitable control arms and swaybars.

[JWP]

In that case this looks like a double benefit as the taller ball joint drops the control arm angle, and thus helps with camber gain or loss depending on how you look at it.

Maybe not in the UK, but over here wouldn't it be prudent financially to get or swap to the 3 bolt attachment if you had an early super with the 2 bolt setup?

[Chris V]

The late Supers came equipped with 2-bolt and R&P - the early design has pros & cons too... As far as these BJ's go, they're neat - but a modified lower-control arm would accommodate a regular BJ and accomplish the same geometry.

[JWP]

Ok, to keep from hijacking this thread any further i guess I need to look at a SB buyers guide or something.

[Tine]

The late Supers came equipped with 2-bolt and R&P - the early design has pros & cons too... As far as these BJ's go, they're neat - but a modified lower-control arm would accommodate a regular BJ and accomplish the same geometry.

I also took modification of the control arm under consideration, but have had doubts about it as it would put the tie rod ( or ball joint, as you say ) out of the imaginary line, which flows through all three connection points of the control arm - through inner bushing where the arm is connected to chassis, sway bar bushing and tie rod swivel point. I have concerns that by doing that, serious warping, bending and possible failure of the control arm could occur while heavy braking and cornering.

If it would be obligatory to use stock ball joint, one could use knuckle risers (as alfa romeo crowd does), but these are pricier and more complicated. Simpler solutions have less potential to fail.

[JWP]

When I say ball joint I was referring to the comparison in the first pic.

[H2OSB]

I want a set of these.

Edit: Whoa! I didn't realize this thread was so old until I posted

johnL (aka H2OSB)
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com

[Piledriver]

Was looking for this picture, knew I had it.
They do make seals for heim joints.

I'm thinking of doing ~that to some 1302 forged arms and using it with 944 or golf struts.

[randyj]

Piledriver,

I would like to use these with a set of 944 turbo spindles that I have. If you do this, I would like to come up and see it even if you are almost to Oklahoma. I am in Austin.

Randy

Was looking for this picture, knew I had it.
They do make seals for heim joints.

I'm thinking of doing ~that to some 1302 forged arms and using it with 944 or golf struts.

[Piledriver]

Piledriver,

I would like to use these with a set of 944 turbo spindles that I have. If you do this, I would like to come up and see it even if you are almost to Oklahoma. I am in Austin.

Randy

Was looking for this picture, knew I had it.
They do make seals for heim joints.

I'm thinking of doing ~that to some 1302 forged arms and using it with 944 or golf struts.

I just have to convince my son to start working on his car again
(This spring is likely as his house is done)

Another thing to check out:
only +.750", but they could be mounted offset wherever, greaseable and rebuildable, dont know if the tapers usable, but for $33 I'm tempted to but some anyway.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Integral-B ... P6201.aspx