Project CFC#1, turbo, back halfed and light (new name, new car page 15)

[bug66]

Something has happened



I've done up most of the engine, still waiting for some good nuts for the rockers.

I need to re-TIG the piping between the top hats, to support installation of a IC.

Think I'll just move the blowoff pipe to the left, and angle the "T" down to the turbo.

I'll go with a cheap IC from Siliconeintakes.com.


Also building a new cage, mounting a new gearbox. Redoing seat mounts, fuel system, watersystem, EFI etc etc etc.

[bug66]

And engine is in the car. Need to find a clean routing for waterlines, and above right shelf should do the trick. Water lines will run down the left side of the car.

Next up is to cut the middle piping, and weld it again, so that it lines up with a IC. Then make a watertank. A lot of small things left

10422270_10153537348726553_6700527631648217010_n.jpg

[bug66]

Progress!



Clutch pedal:



Clutch management:

[madmike]

Nice CM

[bug66]

Nice CM

Thanks! Should do the trick. Stage 4 and thick BM disc, so need to slip some

[madmike]

wow,,,, stage 4 ,,, really necessary??

[Chip Birks]

I think I felt my stage 3 slip a little the last time mine was on the track...heavy cars with lots of power can use a stout clutch, especially with clutch management.

[bug66]

Engine was dynoed at 343 hp and around 360 ft. lbs at the wheels. "Full" weight steel 67 with cage etc etc.

So yeah. Stage 4 and BM is maybe overkill, but I'll rather slip the clutch via the clutch management, than slipping from to little clutch...

[Kalle]

Hi guys,

Necessary or not. It is at least good to know that you have enough clutch. We use the CM to create enough slip to bring the 60ft down, save the gearbox and keep the front wheel at the ground. And it also helps to have a strong clutch for when you take the car to the dyno.

Keep on with the good work mister!

-K-

[panel]

bug66 and Kalle......can you give me the low down on how bug66's CM works? Like what that solenoid does and the proportioning valve is on top of the tunnel. Or what ever it is and why it's better than just the regular type/style etc ?

[Clonebug]

The solenoid is a pass through when off.
When on it diverts the fluid through the valve which is manually adjustable to control the flow for however fast you want the clutch to engage.
I'm sure It takes a few runs to adjust it correctly and also probably needs tweaking depending on track conditions and other parameters.

[Chip Birks]

Typically you'll launch the car with the solenoid active, usually connected to a first gear switch of some sort, this just makes the clutch engage nice and slow on launch no matter how fast you release the pedal. Once the car is in 2nd, the clutch operates like normal.

[bug66]

bug66 and Kalle......can you give me the low down on how bug66's CM works? Like what that solenoid does and the proportioning valve is on top of the tunnel. Or what ever it is and why it's better than just the regular type/style etc ?

Chip and Clonebug are right.

I'll have a micro switch mounted so the solenoid only gets power when in 1st gear.

When I depress the clutch the fluid is routed outside the solenoid, and the valve is open flow in one direction. When I let the clutch pedal go, the fluid pressure wants to go back in the master cylinder, and is routed through the valve forward in the car. In that direction is the adjustment, and the clutchpedal will let the clutch slip the wanted amount.

Saves axles, 1st gear, no major wheel stands and no broken (hopefully) ring/pinion.




As I took the car for it's maiden voyage with the turbo engine today, it deserved a wash

[panel]

So you have one of these also ?

[bug66]

So you have one of these also ?

If you mean the clutch slave cylinder, then yes.