I would not concern yourself with tech asking you to prove to them that your engine is actually a 1600...no one will ask you to remove a head either. BTW,there are quicker ways that you could check your displacement without being to invasive.
The choice in the end is yours. Personally, I would go with a 1915, a 120 Engle cam, and a set of good heads. You probably could make similar power with a 1699, but you'll have to have higher compression and rev the engine much higher.
A 1915 could keep up with a MGB, if it is not too heavily modified. Just food for thought.
85.5x74. Stock length rods. Hand ported 40x35 AJ Sims heads, 120 cam (although Marc's Bugpack 4063-10 suggestion is very temping, plus I have one on hand), Weber 44's, 1.25 rockers. We will sandbag to 9.5:1 compression and use our CB dry sump system.
Last edited by FJCamper on Thu Jul 07, 2016 9:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
I think the W120 is a better choice over the 4063. With the 4063 it will rev higher, but not necessarily make better power. The BP cams are/were very nice street cams. They were typically a tad down on torque compared to the W cams, but the BP cams runs much quieter than the W cams.
T
If you have 2000cc at max. Why not make as big as possible? If the rest of the engine can handle it it will still rev to 8-9k. But that is IF the rest handles it
If u go 78mm cw u will get 1791cc
And 76mm u will get 1745cc thats what im gonna build for my bug 1600 on steroids.
So you won't think us dunces here, we have big 2.4 liter full race engines we can plug in if we want to just blow away the competition.
The point of the mouse motor is to test the driver, not the engine, in a racing environment.
This does not make me a good sport. I do not lose gracefully, and I have built my share of cheaters to beat the other cheaters and I am good at it. I go to a race to win it. The other guy might say he's there for a good time. I'm there to beat him.
