i have a 77 transporter and just got it running again after many years of sitting
it seems to do fine until it gets warm then it feel as though it is chokeing and loses power
i have had all the injectors cleaned and cleared the fuel best as possible
i am thinking it is an air fuel mix prob
can anyone give me help the book says i need a pro mech to do this adj.
thanks tom
fi 77 transporter
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regis101
- Posts: 1070
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2001 1:01 am
fi 77 transporter
Greetings. I consider myself a layman as compared to the others who write. They will tell you ,most likely, that you are gonna have to check each system. Your fuel system has been cleaned, but did you check pressure? Since it has been sitting, there may be rust or corrosion on the electrical components. Grab a Bentley, read up, and go to it. It really does not take long to do a check out. Ya gotta start somewhere. Happy Trails, Regis
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Derek May
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2001 1:01 am
fi 77 transporter
Samotan:
I recommend the following:
1) replace all fuel and vaccuum lines, and check all air hoses for secure fitting, no leaks. If you can replace ALL hoses.
Ensure you use proper metric sizes, I like to use the VW braided stuff.
2) follow the wiring harness out from your FI ECE and remove and clean each electrical contact in turn. One at a time, so you can put it back. You should be able to do this with a little time and some emery cloth.
3) check your battery and alternator.
The FI system requires a few things to work. First, you are replacing the gas lines because if they leak, you are losing pressure. Proper fuel pressure is important. Also, if they leak, your bus can go up in flames -- burned buses are mostly from old fuel lines -- you mentioned its been sitting. Replace 'em all.
Second, the air into the engine is measured, so you have to ensure that its only getting in where its supposed to. You want to make sure all those hoses work without leaks, and ensure that all the hoses are going where they should. Again, get a Hanes and a Bentley.
Third, three important items work off your induction manifold vacuum pressure -- the distributor, your fuel pressure regulator, and your front brakes.
If the vaccum hoses are missing or leak, you aren't getting proper advance in timing in the dizzy, and you aren't getting proper fuel pressure from the regulator. The hoses usually leak at the connection. Again, replace all those old hoses.
Fourth, the system is electronic, a little primitive by today's standard, but they got to the moon on older technology, so its adequate -- but the ECU does read the resistance crossing various sensors -- a couple of temperature sensors, etc -- and it is important that you have good electrical connections. If the connections are corroded, your FI system isn't reading as it should, the ECU won't be getting feedback on the state of the system as it should.
If, after this, you still have problems, track down Ray Greenwood, who is a frequent poster here and a gentleman. He has tremendous knowledge on the Bosche FI system.
It is pretty easy to test most of the sensors in the system, all you need is a standard multi-meter and the manuals, to check to see if the sensors are providing readings within required parameters.
Make sure you get a good repair shop, many don't understand the FI system, which is actually very reliable and performs well -- you just likely need to make up for years of neglect. Some will falsely tell you that the FI is more trouble than its worth and try to sell you a carb system.
good luck.
Even if this doesn't fix the problem, its a good idea for a van that's been sitting, and a good place to start.
I recommend the following:
1) replace all fuel and vaccuum lines, and check all air hoses for secure fitting, no leaks. If you can replace ALL hoses.
Ensure you use proper metric sizes, I like to use the VW braided stuff.
2) follow the wiring harness out from your FI ECE and remove and clean each electrical contact in turn. One at a time, so you can put it back. You should be able to do this with a little time and some emery cloth.
3) check your battery and alternator.
The FI system requires a few things to work. First, you are replacing the gas lines because if they leak, you are losing pressure. Proper fuel pressure is important. Also, if they leak, your bus can go up in flames -- burned buses are mostly from old fuel lines -- you mentioned its been sitting. Replace 'em all.
Second, the air into the engine is measured, so you have to ensure that its only getting in where its supposed to. You want to make sure all those hoses work without leaks, and ensure that all the hoses are going where they should. Again, get a Hanes and a Bentley.
Third, three important items work off your induction manifold vacuum pressure -- the distributor, your fuel pressure regulator, and your front brakes.
If the vaccum hoses are missing or leak, you aren't getting proper advance in timing in the dizzy, and you aren't getting proper fuel pressure from the regulator. The hoses usually leak at the connection. Again, replace all those old hoses.
Fourth, the system is electronic, a little primitive by today's standard, but they got to the moon on older technology, so its adequate -- but the ECU does read the resistance crossing various sensors -- a couple of temperature sensors, etc -- and it is important that you have good electrical connections. If the connections are corroded, your FI system isn't reading as it should, the ECU won't be getting feedback on the state of the system as it should.
If, after this, you still have problems, track down Ray Greenwood, who is a frequent poster here and a gentleman. He has tremendous knowledge on the Bosche FI system.
It is pretty easy to test most of the sensors in the system, all you need is a standard multi-meter and the manuals, to check to see if the sensors are providing readings within required parameters.
Make sure you get a good repair shop, many don't understand the FI system, which is actually very reliable and performs well -- you just likely need to make up for years of neglect. Some will falsely tell you that the FI is more trouble than its worth and try to sell you a carb system.
good luck.
Even if this doesn't fix the problem, its a good idea for a van that's been sitting, and a good place to start.
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ray greenwood
- Posts: 1941
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2001 12:01 am
fi 77 transporter
Morning!...All of the above are probably correct in one respect or another. It is most likely a fuel mixture problem, especially if it seems to run well until it is warmed up. When it is cold, and until the aux. air regulator closes, it is running nicely rich. When warm, one of several things are happening (1) your aux. air regulator is now closed and your extra enrichment is gone...so where did your normally adequate fuel mix go to? well...fuel pressure can be suspect, poor connections at injectors and other components could be suspect. Vacume leaks at manifolds, injector seals and throttle bodies can cause this. (2) even though the fuel injectors have been cleaned, are they giving you a proper spray pattern? If not they will run you lean because a lot of the fuel ends up hitting the intake walls, or poorly mixed. (3) the aux. air regulator may be staying open...this is actually common. It will give too rich of a miture...or lean depending on throttle position. (4) type 4 injected vehicles are extremely sensitive to advance problems. When the engine is running rich during warm up, the vacume characteristics are much different than they are after everything heats up,tightens up and leans out from the CHT,mass air unit and intake temp. sensor. You will seem to have less problems during warm up from the advance unit, than you will once its leaned out. Put a timing strobe on the engine before you do anything and see what kind of advance you are getting. Usually after sitting for a while, you will get rust on the pins and under the weights and breaker plate in the distributor, or a sticky vacume advance unit. Old gummy grease can do the same thing. Clean it out, make sure it functions smoothly. As basics, make sure you are getting excellent spark and your valves are adjusted correctly. I believe you will probably find most of your problems though, in dirty/corroded connections in FI components...and vacume leaks. These are notorious problems of FI engines that sit still for too long. As a matter of course, I drop a gasket set into every older unknown motor. Especially replace injector seals (use CIS seals from about an 80 model rabbit..they fit tighter) and the center boots for the intake...they always leak with age. Ray