I have two topics I'm hoping to get advice on:
1) the first time I rebuilt my engine, when I sealed the case it was cold in the garage ~40F, and might have rushed to put the case halves together (together within 5 minutes of applying Curil T). The case leaked, so I'm convinced I didn't do it the right way. My question on this topic is: How do I remove the Curil T that cured on the case halves? No solvent I've tried thus far has helped to remove anything that's cured. Can I use Scotchbrite?
2) I read another post that described applying RTV at thicknesses below 0.001" (I obviously didn't do this, see #1). I don't feel like I actually learned how to apply Curil T with a roller from the link. Any recommendations on how to apply Curil T uniformly would be much appreciated. And, if I use Scotch-Brite, will I be disturbing the sealing surface too much? I have no idea how much Scotch-Brite mars the surface, but microns are pretty small.
case sealing recommendations
- V8Nate
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:34 pm
Re: case sealing recommendations
Cgates, I have only used Curil T once and did not have an issue, it is non hardening and should easily come off with brake clean. In the past I have always used Indian Head gasket shellac without any issues as well. In my opinion using some scotch brite by hand is no problem to clean up the mating surface. Hope that helps
- V8Nate
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:34 pm
Re: case sealing recommendations
Where did your case leak from?
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- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:04 am
Re: case sealing recommendations
There was seepage all along the bottom side of the case that would build up until it'd drip. It would produce a couple of drips within an hour or so. Most of the Curil didn't harden and was easy to wipe off, but along much of the case there is a fine layer that did. I'm hoping to get it off.
- V8Nate
- Posts: 839
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:34 pm
Re: case sealing recommendations
Hopefully it goes better the next go around. When I applied the sealant to my case halves I cleaned them really well, scuffed the surface with some 180 grit, cleaned it again then applied a very small amount and spread it out with my gloved finger
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- Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:38 pm
Re: case sealing recommendations
I watched an old video of continental (aircooled airplane engines) being built and along with sealant they ran a single silk thread between the case halves. The thread was crossed where the 2 ends meet. It was very interesting, but I have never tried it.
- sideshow
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 11:00 am
Re: case sealing recommendations
I also don't suspect method, enough case sealant really isn't hard just wet enough should be all.
Over the years I have heard of air cooled cases being sealed with ketchup and even none used at all.
I would figure out where the leaks is now. Myself I suspect an error in assembly long before case sealant.
Over the years I have heard of air cooled cases being sealed with ketchup and even none used at all.
I would figure out where the leaks is now. Myself I suspect an error in assembly long before case sealant.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:04 am
Re: case sealing recommendations
Haha.
Error with assembly is very likely as the attempt was my very first. I did have the case machined by a shop to ensure the seam was flat, however, anything to do with assembly is all me and I was going by what I could figure out from the Tom Wilson book. Any suggestions?
- Clatter
- Posts: 2046
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Re: case sealing recommendations
IIRC, you can clean up Curil with carb cleaner or Brake parts cleaner..
I'd get it back apart and clean,
Then assemble just the case and bearings and put a light inside,
Then go into a dark room and check the parting line all around.
I'll also bet that something is holding the case halves apart.. Center main bearing?
Sometimes when there's an old case that got 'screwdrivered', I'll use a bit of 518.
518 from the cam plug to the main seal,
and from the oil pump up to the pulley seal.
518 sucks if you have to clean it off, though.
Way harder than Curil..
I'd get it back apart and clean,
Then assemble just the case and bearings and put a light inside,
Then go into a dark room and check the parting line all around.
I'll also bet that something is holding the case halves apart.. Center main bearing?
Sometimes when there's an old case that got 'screwdrivered', I'll use a bit of 518.
518 from the cam plug to the main seal,
and from the oil pump up to the pulley seal.
518 sucks if you have to clean it off, though.
Way harder than Curil..
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853