Question on running with no torsion bar, and only coil over

VRSICK · Post by **VRSICK** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:36 pm

Ok, so heres the deal. I am putting in new brakes (911 turbo) and in doing so, I had to reaplace the stock control arm with a unit from a 944. Now i'm faced with a problem... THe shock mounting points aren't similar (duh) and so I have to have a shock that mounts as a 944 on the bottem, anda bug on the top. In doing so, someone has suggested to me that I can run with no torsion bar, and just run a coil over spring suspension, that will match up with the correct bolt holes respectively. DOes anyone here know if you can run such a suspension setup?

If it helps its a 1970 standard bug.

mudman · Post by **mudman** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:52 pm

All of the offroad race cars that run coils have no torsion bars. They run a "thru rod" in the beam that takes the place of the torsion.
Look around at some offroad shops for further info. Hope this helps.

Mike

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:23 pm

Is this for the rear or front? I assume rear as the 944 is a MacPhearson strut setup like a Super.

What rear arms are you running? The shocks should line up. Granted the 944 bushing is different and needs bored out.

Why the 911 Turbo brakes and not 944 units? 944 Turbos are relatively easy to fit.

Also check out www.germanlook.com for Porsche conversion information.

VRSICK · Post by **VRSICK** » Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:39 pm

Why the 911 Turbo brakes and not 944 units? 944 Turbos are relatively easy to fit.

The shock Value

What rear arms are you running? The shocks should line up. Granted the 944 bushing is different and needs bored out.

I got the rear arms from a 86 (I think) 944, the guy said they were aluminum. What happened was, I asked around and some guy told me that he used this exact same setup and it would all align up some how... It lines up just fine, but the bottom bolt on the shock is a different size than that of a 944 (Aparently) I was gonna use this as an excuse to get a full coil over setup, so I can control height and damper, but are you saying that I just bore it out?

Bugzlife · Post by **Bugzlife** » Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:13 am

how would you run a "through bar" and still obtain independant rear suspension if both springplates are "tied" together.

some one told me about doing this on a front-end one time, And I realized that I would loose independent front suspension. (a no-no)

iswinkels · Post by **iswinkels** » Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:50 pm

As I understand it the thru bar is round, not square, and has a bolt on each end to stop the trailing arms coming out of the beam. The independant action of the suspension will still work that way.

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:21 pm

Maybe Zen answered this fully on GL.com.

What I understand to be done is use a Beetle (Koni/Bilstein) shock with the 944 arms. The top bolt lines up fine. The bottom shock bushing needs drilled out to fit the larger bolt that is used on the 944 arms.

Maybe there is an off the shelf urethane bushing perhaps? Maybe make your own urethane bushing (good luck - tell me how to do it!) ? Maybe just pressing the metal sleve out will get the necessary clearance, after all it is probably only 2-4mm difference?

Good luck,

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Wed Feb 09, 2005 3:20 am

Pillow wrote:What I understand to be done is use a Beetle (Koni/Bilstein) shock with the 944 arms. The top bolt lines up fine. The bottom shock bushing needs drilled out to fit the larger bolt that is used on the 944 arms.

Good luck,

I did exactly that. Original bug bolt is 12mm. The 944 is 14mm. It is better to use the 944 shocks tho. 944 Koni red ones being the best and the give great handling.

Good luck,
Walter

mudman · Post by **mudman** » Sun Feb 13, 2005 3:48 pm

Bugzlife wrote:how would you run a "through bar" and still obtain independant rear suspension if both springplates are "tied" together.

some one told me about doing this on a front-end one time, And I realized that I would loose independent front suspension. (a no-no)

Sorry, I was thinking of the front "beam" suspension type and didnt even consider the rear.

Thanks for the correction...

Mike

GDRBO · Post by **GDRBO** » Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:23 pm

Actually they are not tyed together they are mearly kept from moving out from one another. Each arm is still allowed to pivot independantly.

tuna · Post by **tuna** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 11:43 am

I saw this done in an airbagged equipped Bug. All they did was remove the rear torsion bars, insert urethane springplate bushings, and and reinstall the springplate cap. I don't know how durable such a setup is. Just replace the airbag with a good coil over.

Tuna

A_67vdub · Post by **A_67vdub** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 11:52 am

So I suppose having all the weight and forces of the back of the car going through the shock bolt is strong enough?

Steve

90metal · Post by **90metal** » Mon Mar 28, 2022 8:43 am

I am looking for coil springs to lift the rear suspension on a 67 vw trike. I eliminated the tortion bars, and replaced the spring plates with a non-tention replacement kit. Now I need strong springs to lift the suspension. HELP!!!

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Question on running with no torsion bar, and only coil over

Question on running with no torsion bar, and only coil over

Re: Question on running with no torsion bar, and only coil over