Still messing with the screen.
The wave share screen had the controller mounted to the rear with the socket on the edge, which isn’t great for hidden wires.
I detached the controller (attached with foam tape) and bought some longer ribbon cables plus one tiny connector for the touch wires.
This means the controller can be mounted behind the dash & the screen can sit better without visible wires
Sorry but wouldn't it be a whole lot easier using an Android phone and one of the many dashboard apps like realdash etc with bluetooth ?
I appreciate the skills but there comes a point where using predeveloped products is a better option
That would be the easier path I’m sure.
But I have a bad habit of trying something different.
I wanted a neat integrated dash screen. I did install RealDash on my phone but didn’t want to have to the hassle of mounting/ connecting /open app then dismounting etc, my phone or a spare phone for every drive.
I’m using the TS Dash image which is lightweight & powers up quickly but I’ve changed the boot settings to launch TS instead of the Dash app, & go straight to full screen. I’ve got a timer relay so the PI will detect the key off power down then have time to shutdown before the relay cuts it’s power feed (prevents a parasitic battery drain). So the idea is to have zero hassle integration.
reminds me of when I had to patch in a new LCD screen and battery pack for my dyno controller a lot of hours I will never get back
Eventually got the software updated and a couple of touchsreen handhelds for £30
For the EMU ECU you can either get a bluetooth transmitter which would allow you to run an android dash and laptop tune at the same time or you can just run a USB cable up front and switch between android and laptop and you can also have GPS speedo working
Here it is
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Real parts=Real Performance-Get Real
Opinion is the medium between knowledge and ignorance (Plato).
Bruce.m wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:02 am
Realise I haven’t explained the fuel system fully.
Based on research & tips from the likes of PaulH. Bought a Chinese “Mex bug” fuel pump module which includes a mini sump housing so it works with the stock tank. Gives enough flow for a modest HP non-turbo engine. Easily sourced for less than £40 UK.
The fuel filter is a VAG item used on modern TFSI engines. It uses the 7.89 fuel connectors and has an internal fixed regulator at 3bar (higher pressure versions available), so does two jobs. I bought the Mahle brand version which is part KL156/1
Hi bruce,
I am at the start of a project to convert a Beetle to Speeduino injection.
Your project really interests me, because it looks like mine
I would like some information on the fuel supply:
Is it possible to draw the fuel circuit with this pump and this filter/regulator?
did you return it to your fuel tank from your regulator?
sorry for my English I go through a translator...
Thank you in advance.
The relief from the regulator (to keep pressure at 3bar) goes back to the pump housing. There is a vent from the pump which goes to the top of the petrol tank, to let air escape the pump housing.
The pump needs to be below the level of the tank so the petrol will flow into the pump. Or you can add a low pressure pump underneath the tank to lift the petrol to the high pressure pump
Last edited by Bruce.m on Thu Jan 04, 2024 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Thank you for that answer.
Can you tell what this connector is on the filter/regulator.
By the way, what material are your using for your 3D prints ? Because I draw and print a lot, but I don't know which filament can withstand so much stress (fuel, heat....)
I will keep your subject carefully because it is a mine of information
Frdd
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The feature you circled in the photo is not a fuel connection. It’s just a metal stub used by the clamp in the original fitment to support the filter. So you can ignore it
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
I use Nylon with Carbon Fibre, for printing car parts. It’s not easy to print on my ender3 (needed a full metal HotEnd).
Esun PA-CF is the stuff I’ve used so far.
I’m considering a printer upgrade to a Bambu X1C or a P1S (with extruder change to hardened steel) but it’s a fair cost. Worth it if you are selling the parts but hard to justify for a hobby
No, not on that filter / regulator. It’s fixed at 3 bar. You compensate in the VE table. Fine for non-turbo but for a turbo (more than low boost) I’d switch to a separate regulator.
Bruce.m wrote: ↑Fri Jan 05, 2024 1:05 am
The feature you circled in the photo is not a fuel connection. It’s just a metal stub used by the clamp in the original fitment to support the filter. So you can ignore it
Ok perfect, thank you for all these valuable answers.
One last question and then I'll leave you alone (for the moment)...
Have you changed the diameter of the tubes between the tank and the pump? because the circuit after is 8mm, but before it is smaller?
Frdd
