ok this is a double question
q#1. I made a hot wire for my type 4 and nothing happens. The battery is good and charged and i still get a "boing""boing" at thr steering collumn but it doesnt turn over. I am getting power to both the starter silinoid and the coil with the hot wire in place but no turnover. could it be the starter? I just need to know where to trouble shoot from here!!!
q#2. I have purchased dual webers from a guy at a show . They are brazilian webers. i believe they are 34 mm..does anyone know anything about these webers, i cant find any info on them..i need a rebuild kit for them. The seller stated that cb performance said they had them but i cant find anything there either. Again, any info would be greatly appreciated.
derf**out**
need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
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need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
Hello-
For the first question, check your battery cables. The solenoid gets its power from your ignition switch, but the starter itself gets its juice directly from the battery. Ensure everything works well there. If it still isn't working, then it may be your starter.
For the second question, they sound like they might be ICT carbs. Are they? Look around for other identifying markers. Typically they have something like "40 IDF 19" or "32/36 DFAV xx" written on them, where the first number is the choke size (or two sizes for progressive carbs), the series of three or four letters is the model type, and the last number is the series (i.e. new updates on the designs... 40 IDF 19 is an OLD carb).
Take care,
Shad
For the first question, check your battery cables. The solenoid gets its power from your ignition switch, but the starter itself gets its juice directly from the battery. Ensure everything works well there. If it still isn't working, then it may be your starter.
For the second question, they sound like they might be ICT carbs. Are they? Look around for other identifying markers. Typically they have something like "40 IDF 19" or "32/36 DFAV xx" written on them, where the first number is the choke size (or two sizes for progressive carbs), the series of three or four letters is the model type, and the last number is the series (i.e. new updates on the designs... 40 IDF 19 is an OLD carb).
Take care,
Shad
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need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
If the car has an auto box then check the contacts at the shift lever as these can cause problems. Make sure the car is in N or P before turning the key.
Any type of box:- Use a jump lead to eath the engine to the body as the earth strap under the car sometimes breaks causing this kind of fault.
Check with a test lamp that the solenoid is swithing properly by testing for power on the stud nearest the motor on the solenoid.
If power is transfering across both poles of the solenoid then the starter will probaly need to come out for repair/replacement.
Any type of box:- Use a jump lead to eath the engine to the body as the earth strap under the car sometimes breaks causing this kind of fault.
Check with a test lamp that the solenoid is swithing properly by testing for power on the stud nearest the motor on the solenoid.
If power is transfering across both poles of the solenoid then the starter will probaly need to come out for repair/replacement.
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need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
there are numbers on the carbs themselves but it seems the brazilian carbs dont have the usual numbers on them like ict's. I know they are very similar to the ict's but no where on them does it say ict.there are tags on them, one each. on one it reads:
W 228092/lado direito/ l.80 and on the other it is
W 228093/Lado Esqueldo/ l.80
and it does have brasileir stating that it came from brazil and the "w" with bar under it (weber)
thanks
W 228092/lado direito/ l.80 and on the other it is
W 228093/Lado Esqueldo/ l.80
and it does have brasileir stating that it came from brazil and the "w" with bar under it (weber)
thanks
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need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
Derf
Check the voltage on the solinoid if you should have 12vdc. Then take a screwdriver and carefully jump between the two large studs on the solinoid. this will tell you if the starter motor turns over if it does the motor portion is okay. the jumper between the large stud and small stud. the should activate the solinoid and starter. If it doesn't the the solinoid is out and time for a new starter. If it does the trace out the wiring from the ignition switch. When doing the MAKE SURE TRANNY IS IN NEUTRAL AND YOU HAVE THE CAR ON A SET OF STURDY JACK STANDS.
Hope this helps.
Alan
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"Hot rodding is mega ingenuity - not mega bucks"
Check the voltage on the solinoid if you should have 12vdc. Then take a screwdriver and carefully jump between the two large studs on the solinoid. this will tell you if the starter motor turns over if it does the motor portion is okay. the jumper between the large stud and small stud. the should activate the solinoid and starter. If it doesn't the the solinoid is out and time for a new starter. If it does the trace out the wiring from the ignition switch. When doing the MAKE SURE TRANNY IS IN NEUTRAL AND YOU HAVE THE CAR ON A SET OF STURDY JACK STANDS.
Hope this helps.
Alan
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"Hot rodding is mega ingenuity - not mega bucks"
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need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
in spanish, left=izquierda, and right=la derecha. I believe the language in brazil is portugeze, but your carbs are probably labeled left side and right side
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Re: need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
I have a pair of these carbs. Same numbering on them. What are the chances they ate the same ones just 23 years later on a new home. I have completely rebuilt them. The old felt accelerator pumps seem questionable so I am olderkng anything o can find online to cobble together. Everything else seems fine. I just need to fabricate some linkage for them as they are old school design and new rotating dual carb linkage won’t work as they pull the same direction so I imagine I’ll have to rig up some kind of linkage that allows them to pull one way.derfregal wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2001 6:15 am there are numbers on the carbs themselves but it seems the brazilian carbs dont have the usual numbers on them like ict's. I know they are very similar to the ict's but no where on them does it say ict.there are tags on them, one each. on one it reads:
W 228092/lado direito/ l.80 and on the other it is
W 228093/Lado Esqueldo/ l.80
and it does have brasileir stating that it came from brazil and the "w" with bar under it (weber)
thanks
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- BugUgly
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Re: need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
Holy Schmidt! I haven't had one of those in decades! (Trout are the best ones.)
- Clatter
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Re: need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
FWIW,
The Scat karb linkage kit might be a good place to start.
It'll need modification, but you could use the parts.
https://www2.cip1.com/C15-30050/?gad_so ... gLlo_D_BwE
The Scat karb linkage kit might be a good place to start.
It'll need modification, but you could use the parts.
https://www2.cip1.com/C15-30050/?gad_so ... gLlo_D_BwE
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
- Piledriver
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Re: need some serious help with type 4 stuff....
If you can flip the lever top to bottom it will pull the opposite way... Also the linkage bits of many carbs are frequently adaptable to other setups, I managed to kill several holley-weber progressives stealing bits off the linkage before settling on split cable pulls.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.