Does CB Performance 4182 front rotor fit OEM spindle?

[Volky]

Hi, posted this on the other site and no answer.

I was about to buy a new set of rotors from a friend that sells VW stuff for $360.00 the pair which includes all new bearings, spindle nut and cover. I'm in need of a set since my 5x130 was a conversion and studs wiggle, NO BUENO and a bit thin. I find the price reasonable since if I were to order them from CB, just in shipping would be alot since I'm frpm Puerto Rico.

Will they fit my stock spindle? Just don't want to throw $360.00 away. I called CB yesterday but...guess what, they were closed.

[Piledriver]

That is a nice alloy hub with a bolt on rotor. I have a set. You can but just the rotors... I don't know what the replaceable rotors originally fit. Make sure you get a left and a right.

They only fit ball joint spindles, but you may find the studs too short. CB can fix that buying new.
Note that you can get 14mm studs in many lengths and knurled area sizes to fix your existing loose stud issue.. I usually hit them with a bit of Tig braze on the backside. (on iron hubs, if steel just 2 good tack welds)

I bought the a set for my 914 because they are solid billet 6061T6 hubs with a 4.5" bolt pattern on the back, and will be getting much larger vented rotors or whatever adapter I need, (next project, size TBD, may use 911 rotors, many options.

Note they are NOT "bolt on (but usable with spacers) for a late 914 due to the rotor offset, but are bolt on to Ghias, and T3s (late T3s may need spacers) all use balljoint spindles.) My 73 square has Wilwood Superlites with 8x7 rotors on slightly modified T3 spindles and turned down hubs (ex stock rotor)...so I cannot test fit on that car.

The CB 4182s usually run >$550/pair for the hubs and rotors.

[Volky]

That is a nice alloy hub with a bolt on rotor. I have a set. You can but just the rotors... I don't know what the replaceable rotors originally fit. Make sure you get a left and a right.

They only fit ball joint spindles, but you may find the studs too short. CB can fix that buying new.
Note that you can get 14mm studs in many lengths and knurled area sizes to fix your existing loose stud issue.. I usually hit them with a bit of Tig braze on the backside. (on iron hubs, if steel just 2 good tack welds)

I bought the a set for my 914 because they are solid billet 6061T6 hubs with a 4.5" bolt pattern on the back, and will be getting much larger vented rotors or whatever adapter I need, (next project, size TBD, may use 911 rotors, many options.

Note they are NOT "bolt on (but usable with spacers) for a late 914 due to the rotor offset, but are bolt on to Ghias, and T3s (late T3s may need spacers) all use balljoint spindles.) My 73 square has Wilwood Superlites with 8x7 rotors on slightly modified T3 spindles and turned down hubs (ex stock rotor)...so I cannot test fit on that car.

The CB 4182s usually run >$550/pair for the hubs and rotors.

Hi Piledriver,

So on 3/22/2025 I bought the pair of L/R rotors and they were in NEW condition as described by the seller. I installed one side and the rotor was hitting the caliper upon rotation. I had to stop due to the lack of sunlight (started late) but got to analyze a bit now. Never a 10 minute job on anything we me. Also, had to grind down the caliper a bit since I took off the spacer which now doesn't fit the hub since the bolts are now thicker.

Hopefully, nothing serious.

[Piledriver]

What spacer? Shouldn't need to grind on anything.

[Volky]

What spacer? Shouldn't need to grind on anything.

Hi,

I was talking about the wheel spacer in the center I plan to eliminate that has nothing to do with my issue.

The issue is that the rotor hits an edge of the caliper on the front of the caliper. Don't know want I'm missing here. It was late and maybe got something crooked. Also, looks like one piston is not sliding upon pressing the brakes causing it not to be centered?

[Piledriver]

OK, may need to rebuild calipers, don't grind on things just yet, should not be needed.

[Volky]

OK, may need to rebuild calipers, don't grind on things just yet, should not be needed.

Thanks, will inspect...

[Volky]

Hi to all,

So, yesterday I got home after the dentist, UFF and took a peek at the rotor only to find nothing. I then put the right side on and it rotated normal, no binding. I checked the small bearing and its race and seems like it is in place. I couldn't verify the rear bearing ang race due to its seal. I bought the rotors with the bearings already installed (which I hate because it can bring issues). Can it be that the seal and or the rear race be crooked and cause this wobble?

This morning while driving to work I was thinking of comparing the depth of the seal with the right side and if not good just push it in. If that doesn't work, plan to take out the seal and inspect the race.

All this equipment is new but bought maybe a year ago. The bearings even have grease on them.

[Piledriver]

The seals are cheap. Pull everything out, clean and and regrease, first.

Could have a chunk of something in them, or the PO goofed the bearing install.

If you end up having to replace the bearings, do understand these are expensive aluminum hubs, and it's easier to jack up the bearing install vs. iron rotors. #1: Buy good National or NSK bearings. Buy good moly EP grease. Don't buy the $2 seals.
.
Take the rotors off, clean the grease out very thoroughly. A dishwasher works great and preheats them.
Heat them in an oven to at least 250F for an hour before driving the races out/in.(dishwasher with heat dry speeds it up)
(no more than 300F in oven)

[Volky]

If you end up having to replace the bearings, do understand these are expensive aluminum hubs, and it's easier to jack up the bearing install vs. iron rotors. #1: Buy good National or NSK bearings. Buy good moly EP grease. Don't buy the $2 seals.
I sent a co-worker of mine to buy me two seals from a local VW shop...
.
Take the rotors off, clean the grease out very thoroughly. A dishwasher works great and preheats them.
Heat them in an oven to at least 250F for an hour before driving the races out/in.(dishwasher with heat dry speeds it up)
(no more than 300F in oven)
So, I just put them in and they will drop / slip off? I never dealt with this.

[Piledriver]

Wheel bearing races are pressed in or very carefully tapped in with a punch....has to go in straight.
Heating the aluminum hub make it much easier, but they still don't drop in.
Hopefully that won't be needed.If you have not done it take it to an automotive machine shop or shop that does old Porsches.
Aluminum hubs can be damaged if some kid doesn't know what they are doing.

...As to the seals, The outside of the seal goes in dry. no need to heat for the seals and regrease.

[Volky]

Wheel bearing races are pressed in or very carefully tapped in with a punch....has to go in straight.
Heating the aluminum hub make it much easier, but they still don't drop in.
Hopefully that won't be needed.If you have not done it take it to an automotive machine shop or shop that does old Porsches.
Aluminum hubs can be damaged if some kid doesn't know what they are doing.

...As to the seals, The outside of the seal goes in dry. no need to heat for the seals and regrease.

Thanks,

My co-worker just gave me the new seals (elring) stated on the box. $9.00 for two seals here.

[Volky]

Good morning,

Last night I got to see what the issue was on the rotor. I guess the previous owner smacked in the race sideways and didn't notice it, installed the seal and left it as is.

I re-centered the rear race and it spins straight. Had to order the billet caps from CB since the seller gave me the metal ones which are a pain to put on.

[Piledriver]

Glad it was a simple fix.

I didn't get any caps with mine... I'm looking at adding a hubcentric ring, as I found it matters, esp up front.. Even added some to my rear on T3, turned the snout down a bit on the t3 hub and pressed on an aluminum ring. (also cut OD of hub to center 914 rotor) Round is Better. Cut out ~all the low level vibration on the highway, you typically get so used to it, don't notice it until its gone. ('85 944 turbo rear arms etc on it now)