thanks2.0 tuning
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vwsamba
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:48 pm
2.0 tuning
i just got my 2.0 back together with repaired heads from european.it runs 80% i'd say...runs lurchy when cold,good when hot but always if i crack the throttle a tiny amount the motor seems to stumble but after that its fine...i was thinking of ditching all the vaccum stuff.do i need the aux air valve??any ideas on what to check??its does run good tho lots of torque.already put 500 miles on it in a week thanks
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Dave_Darling
- Posts: 2534
- Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2000 12:01 am
If it has the stock 2.0 914 fuel injection stuff on it, then your #1 resource for information is here: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders . It will tell you about the "vacuum stuff", including the AAR. The AAR's function is to provide a higher idle when the engine is cold--without it, the engine will want to idle at somewhere between 0 and 500 RPM when just starting up, which means it won't idle for very long at all. The AAR gradually closes as it warms up, either with engine heat (after ~15-20 minutes) or through its internal heating element, which is hooked into the fuel pump circuit (~5-10 minutes).
If you really want to tap-dance for the first 10 minutes or so of your drive, I guess it's OK to ditch it and plug the holes. Similarly, the other "vacuum stuff" also serves some function. Read the website to get some idea of what it does.
--DD
If you really want to tap-dance for the first 10 minutes or so of your drive, I guess it's OK to ditch it and plug the holes. Similarly, the other "vacuum stuff" also serves some function. Read the website to get some idea of what it does.
--DD
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11908
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
There is nothing that is actually removeable...vacuum wise on D-jet. It all serves an important purpose. In fact....D-jet...is manifold vacuum pressure controlled injection.
The AAR valve...will save you lots of grief starting in almost all weather except for plain old hot wetaher. The only parts that you can get rid of are the vacuum advance and retard lines...if you go to just centrifugal advance ...which is not recoommended with teh stock distributor (which you have to keep). It has flat spots without the vacuum advance.
The EGR tubes to the heads...are necessary for closed loop vacuum....and keeps the engine cleaner and cooler.
You could in a pinch..remove the vacuum deceleration valve, but in doing so you also risk lean spots and detonation at some throttle positions on high speed overrun. Its worth it to explore the link Dave gave you. Ray
The AAR valve...will save you lots of grief starting in almost all weather except for plain old hot wetaher. The only parts that you can get rid of are the vacuum advance and retard lines...if you go to just centrifugal advance ...which is not recoommended with teh stock distributor (which you have to keep). It has flat spots without the vacuum advance.
The EGR tubes to the heads...are necessary for closed loop vacuum....and keeps the engine cleaner and cooler.
You could in a pinch..remove the vacuum deceleration valve, but in doing so you also risk lean spots and detonation at some throttle positions on high speed overrun. Its worth it to explore the link Dave gave you. Ray