73 Bus Window Regulator Replacement

[Coconut]

I got the regulator on order, but was lookin' for some insider advice on replacing the Drivers side Regulator on a bus. I am looking for pointers tips or anything you can offer.
I remember trying to figure out how to get the thing off when the crank went out about a year and a half ago. the Window Glass has been dropped and the Assembly is unbolted. Funny thing, after scratching my head for a couple of hours, I settled for holding the window up with the arm of a car jack pried between the Door Window Sash and the bottom of the Door.
Shut it too hard, and the window drops, driving in the rain, freezing cold, Julius don't care. I think He finds it amusing.
But 1.5yr later, the regulator is coming and I kind of want to be ready...
your posts are GREATLY appreciated.

[david58]

I am trying to replace the window regulator on my '71 type II but cannot
get the old one out.
It appears to be hanging up on the bottom of the vent window. Does anyone
know how to remove this?


David,

Here's one solution to the stripped/broken regulator gear problem. I found
replacing the regulator alone (just the gear housing) easier than removing
the vent window to swap in a whole new regulator/track assembly. This works
well if you have a used assembly from a dead door to cannibalize--I suspect
new replacement regulator/tracks aren't 100% compatible with the originals.
This procedure isn't time consuming and eliminates the risk of breaking
stubborn door parts.

The two hole flanges that are welded to the regulator track do not like to
snake their way around the inevitably more difficult to remove door parts
(that is, without removing the conflicting vent window). I resorted to
moving the front of the track forward and downward so that the offending
regulator was accessible, drilling out the two rivets on the side opposite
the gears, then peeling the regulator housing back to disengage it from the
track using first a screwdriver and then vice grips. I removed the other
regulator from my spare track in a similar fashion, and reinstalled it on
the track in my door by bending it over the track (positioning the housing
so that it locked on the raised tabs on the track) and replacing the drilled
out rivets with nuts and bolts, (which were cleaned then daubed with blue
Loctite). I also removed the cable, cleaned and regreased it with
molybdenum grease as Bentley recommends. Try not to bend the track much when
you're snaking it in and out to access the regulator--bends will cause the
cable to bind in operation and it's pretty tough to bring the metal groove
back to its original shape. That regulator is one part on a bus that needs
a Zerk fitting. I mean, I don't want to have to replace that thing every 27
years, geesh!

Ron

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