cv joint/axles

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Glennby
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:07 pm

cv joint/axles

Post by Glennby »

Hi all.driving my bus yesterday, notice clicking sounds,can i just repack or do i need new ones?.when driving it the sound goes away then comes back,not too sure.i know on most cars it means replace.



Glennby
blue77bay
Posts: 244
Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2005 2:03 am

Post by blue77bay »

repacking will get you by for a short time but if you are going to so much effort to repack why not replace them and your done with it ,, repacking is one of the worst jobs ever...
Pillow
Posts: 2940
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2001 1:01 am

Post by Pillow »

How much "slop" is in the axle when you twist it? Usually you can tell if they are toast by playing with them under the bus by hand.

edit: the rear wheels have to be off the ground to test "slop".

Just do not let them go to far or they can explode at the most inconvenient time :(
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Gobusgo
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu May 24, 2001 12:01 am

Post by Gobusgo »

...repacking is one of the worst jobs ever...
Oh no! Quite the contrary! Especially if you enjoy getting sticky, messy grease everywhere while trying to take the CV joint off to clean, having to wipe your hands every few minutes to pick up the tools you need, making sure the little steel balls don't fall out the cage and roll to the nether recesses of the area under your work table, and did I mention a greasy, sticky mess?

I'm in the middle of this job right now... :mrgreen:
Pillow
Posts: 2940
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2001 1:01 am

Post by Pillow »

NOt to mention the grease is black death which is impossible to clean off your hands and stains clothes on contact.

fun! :(
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raygreenwood
Posts: 11908
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am

Post by raygreenwood »

A note of HEALTH on the black grease. Most true CV joint grease...like that in the little blue OEM tubes.....has a HUGE lead content. Very toxic! It also has a HUGE volume of Molybdenum disulphide...also works just like lead in your system. USE GLOVES!
I usuall use the moly-graph...(molybdenum disulphide and graphite grease). Its easier to find stays more consistent...and is marginally less toxic. Ray
Glennby
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:07 pm

cv axles

Post by Glennby »

awww thanks guy's. I'm goin under this morning to replace it.I agree it's not the cleanest job but it's gotta be done.I am glad that i was just putting around and not going to work :shock: or coming home from work.



Glennby
Pillow
Posts: 2940
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2001 1:01 am

Post by Pillow »

Great info Ray!

I alwasy seem to get holes in my latex gloves and end up with a black finger or two :(
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Gobusgo
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu May 24, 2001 12:01 am

Post by Gobusgo »

USE GLOVES!
Yup. Purple nitrile gloves for me. I use them for just about any work I do. Keeps the brake dust off the hands whilst doing the brakes, gas off the hands while working on fuel parts (they don't last long working with gas, though) and they're only about $8 for a 100 pack.
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Bookwus
Posts: 281
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2001 12:01 am

Post by Bookwus »

Hiya Guys,

For what it might be worth to you.......................

I've found a way to minimize the mess of actually repacking the CV and, at the same time, do a much better job of forcing the grease into the cage and around the balls.

Here's the skinny.............. With the new CV in place on the half shaft, I place a sheet of plastic kitchen wrap (like Gladwrap) on my work bench. I then place the CV on top of the kitchen wrap so that the half shaft is pointing straight up and the CV is resting on the kitchen wrap. A big dollop of moly grease goes on the CV. Then I gather the ends of the kitchen wrap and secure them to the half shaft (forming a bag around the CV and grease) with some duct tape. I try to get as much air out of the "bag" as is possible. Then I work the grease into the cage. The kitchen wrap is surprisingly tough, but very pliable. This allows me to get the grease into the bearings without getting the mess on my hands.

So, why not just use gloves? Well, the plastic wrap actually helps to contain the grease and FORCE it into the crevices. Very neat. Once you go this route, you'll never go back to gloves and mess.
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Glennby
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:07 pm

Post by Glennby »

Well guy's it's in..after i had to put one side together.had a lot of trouble,but i got it.but it's binding not as flexable as the other side.i thought being new and all.. the inboard side is ok.soooo i will take it apart again to see what's what.btw it clunks real bad going forward. and backing up it's fine.something must be backwards.could this be the problem???.i wanna thank those folks who responded BIG HELP!!!after not working on these things in over 25 + years i forgot several little things.also the star bolts takes the t40 adapter right?.the old bolts rounded off pretty easily.sorry this is long but see what coffee does to ya....



Glennby
*tony*
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 4:42 am

Post by *tony* »

try turning the complete drive shaft around when you refit so that the cv joint that attached to the hub, now attaches to the g/box.

I have done this on both sides now when each became noisey (clunky) and both are good and quiet again.
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