I started filling holes in the dash last week. These are the patterns for the patches. Spend time making the metal patches fit as its a lot easier to weld and metal finish. I trace onto the steel and cut on the outside of the pencil line and finish with a file to fit. If you grind the welds under the hood it almost looks virgin. I can not stand square patches welded behind the dash and filled with bondo. This may help someone's first attempt to smooth thier dash.
![Image](http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/perrib/BajaHadley1208034-1.jpg)
Note there is no light passing through. I filed the edges of the patch to hightlight the fit.
![Image](http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/perrib/BajaHadley1208032-1.jpg)
I leave the hole to the right of the ash tray to mount a stock headlight switch to run the off road lights.
![Image](http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/perrib/BajaHadley1208037-1.jpg)
If I had used .023 instead of .030 wire there would be a lot less grinding. I like the 80 grit flap disc to dress the welds the metal does not get as hot and the finish is much nicer. I did not have any left so out came the 4" grinder with a solid grinding wheel. Its kind of ugly but the rest of the Baja has hit everything but the lottery.
Weld a little at a time. Keep a damp rag handy to cool the metal. Just cool enough to much cooling will warp the metal the other way.
![Image](http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/perrib/BajaHadley1208040-1.jpg)
Note the file marks showing the high and low spots. The lows are a 1/32" or less deep. After the welds get sandblasted it will be ready for a skim coat of bondo. I have had a friend tig weld patches before. Much less metal finishing is needed and bondo is not needed.
Some one went crazy with a drill mounting stuff. There is even a hole in the defroster drain cavity.
I am punting untill Tuesday to finish the last 5 holes.