who has done this already, care to share a picture or two, maybe a phone call?
im getting ready to start building and want to run edis with a t3cooling setup.
edis crank trigger on t3???
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72_square
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:19 pm
I'm just putting mine together at the moment. Running a 36-1 wheel and coil packs, but not using edis. Driving coil packs from megasquirt. Its taken me a week of evenings to figure out how to mount the wheel. Here's what I ended up with:
1) Bought a 8.25inch solid trigger wheel from www.triggerwheels.com
2) I haven't got any fancy metalworking gear, so I used a drill table to drill out the centre area of the wheel (its 5mm thick!). The teeth just protrude past the original lugs on the front fan wheel and I cut the inside out to match with the inside rim of the fan. I left three small lugs to allow fixing of the wheel at 120degrees separation.
3) I tapped the original holes in the fan lugs with M8 bolts I inserted 6No M8 threads into these lugs.
4) I made 3No small metal plates to sit over the threads at 120 degrees sep (two threads per plate). I then welded through the plates onto the threads to fix them on and ground the face flat.
5) I then mounted the 36-1 wheel onto the plates and welded at the joint.
6) The front of the wheel obviously sticks out now a lot more (12-14mm). I have had to 'massage' the btm area of the fan tin to give enough room for the new wheel and fan belt replacement. If you have a stock exhaust, this is tricky as too much metal bashing makes it tricky to get the tin in. I've ended up doing some work, but allowing the tin to fit in, then expanding it a bit more when its in place. This means the tin won't come out again without pushing the enlarged area back in, but luckily, it doesn't normally need to come off.
7) This is as far as I've got. Tomorrow I'm looking at mounting the VR sensor just to the right of the timing hole.
Sorry for the long reply. I've probably made this sound harder than it is. I have took a few pics and I'll try and get them up in a day or two.
1) Bought a 8.25inch solid trigger wheel from www.triggerwheels.com
2) I haven't got any fancy metalworking gear, so I used a drill table to drill out the centre area of the wheel (its 5mm thick!). The teeth just protrude past the original lugs on the front fan wheel and I cut the inside out to match with the inside rim of the fan. I left three small lugs to allow fixing of the wheel at 120degrees separation.
3) I tapped the original holes in the fan lugs with M8 bolts I inserted 6No M8 threads into these lugs.
4) I made 3No small metal plates to sit over the threads at 120 degrees sep (two threads per plate). I then welded through the plates onto the threads to fix them on and ground the face flat.
5) I then mounted the 36-1 wheel onto the plates and welded at the joint.
6) The front of the wheel obviously sticks out now a lot more (12-14mm). I have had to 'massage' the btm area of the fan tin to give enough room for the new wheel and fan belt replacement. If you have a stock exhaust, this is tricky as too much metal bashing makes it tricky to get the tin in. I've ended up doing some work, but allowing the tin to fit in, then expanding it a bit more when its in place. This means the tin won't come out again without pushing the enlarged area back in, but luckily, it doesn't normally need to come off.
7) This is as far as I've got. Tomorrow I'm looking at mounting the VR sensor just to the right of the timing hole.
Sorry for the long reply. I've probably made this sound harder than it is. I have took a few pics and I'll try and get them up in a day or two.
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grimace007
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:37 pm
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LesTroyer
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:58 am
I've got all the parts, but waiting for a few other projects to be done first. my plan was to mill the outer fan by the thickness of the trigger wheel. I didn't think there would be room (even with reshaping the housing ) to re-install the fan belt with it sticking out in front of the fan....
One other location suggested to me was dowelling the flywheel, and cutting a hole in the case to stick the VR sensor into....
got my wheel from diyautotune not solid but the center will still have to be taken out to mount up to the fan.
LEs
One other location suggested to me was dowelling the flywheel, and cutting a hole in the case to stick the VR sensor into....
got my wheel from diyautotune not solid but the center will still have to be taken out to mount up to the fan.
LEs
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72_square
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:19 pm
Ok, got some pics uploaded now:
Here's the pully after I've drilled and tapped about 4/5 holes with M8 threads at each 120 degree location. I was originally going to fully bolt everything on until I realized that the increased width of the pully would be too much. I threaded in M8 studs and left about 3mm projecting. I then made three plates to fit over the studs
Here's the plates welded on. Welded through plate onto stud. No way for the stud to come loose now.
Trigger wheel then welded to tabs. Centred the wheel and tacked on to make sure it was as central as possible. Ground the tabs as short as possible (the extra hole was for the bolted solution originally).
Spaced the wheel away from the tabs with a couple of washers. Not sure if I could have omitted this to save a few mm projection of the wheel, but I was worried the plates might confuse the VR sensor.
Hammered the btm of the tinware outwards. This was an awkward process as if you go too far on the bench, you cannot get the tin in. Trial and error resulted in getting the tin fixed in place with some enlargement and then expanding it some more when in place (make sure the pully is within the tin when you do this as it doesn't fit in afterwards!)
Finished item in place. Enough space to get a fanbelt on with no drama. I've done 300miles with it in place so far with no problems.
Ideally I should have balanced the wheel, might do in the future if I can find someone to do it. I couldn't think of many alternatives to this arrangement. I suppose you could use the 30 original holes on the front of the pully to dowel/add studs to. I 'think' megasquirt wheel decoder would let you configure on 30-1 wheel. If you mill the face of the wheel down, how are you going to fix the trigger wheel on?
Here's the pully after I've drilled and tapped about 4/5 holes with M8 threads at each 120 degree location. I was originally going to fully bolt everything on until I realized that the increased width of the pully would be too much. I threaded in M8 studs and left about 3mm projecting. I then made three plates to fit over the studs
Here's the plates welded on. Welded through plate onto stud. No way for the stud to come loose now.
Trigger wheel then welded to tabs. Centred the wheel and tacked on to make sure it was as central as possible. Ground the tabs as short as possible (the extra hole was for the bolted solution originally).
Spaced the wheel away from the tabs with a couple of washers. Not sure if I could have omitted this to save a few mm projection of the wheel, but I was worried the plates might confuse the VR sensor.
Hammered the btm of the tinware outwards. This was an awkward process as if you go too far on the bench, you cannot get the tin in. Trial and error resulted in getting the tin fixed in place with some enlargement and then expanding it some more when in place (make sure the pully is within the tin when you do this as it doesn't fit in afterwards!)
Finished item in place. Enough space to get a fanbelt on with no drama. I've done 300miles with it in place so far with no problems.
Ideally I should have balanced the wheel, might do in the future if I can find someone to do it. I couldn't think of many alternatives to this arrangement. I suppose you could use the 30 original holes on the front of the pully to dowel/add studs to. I 'think' megasquirt wheel decoder would let you configure on 30-1 wheel. If you mill the face of the wheel down, how are you going to fix the trigger wheel on?