Some pre-question background info about my car. 73 914 1.7l now 2.4. New Hi torque starter from pelican parts 5 months ago.
I was driving my car yesterday. Worked great. Put the car back into the garage for a few hours. Went back out to play with the carbs. Tried to start, starter engaged. Turned the key again and I only got a click from the starter. I thought that the battery may be bad. Tried different battery- same thing. Purchased new battery and still the same thing. Took the starter off the transmission to see what would happen when it wasn't under load. Same thing happened. Completely unhooked the starter and put it on the trunk and reconnected it- worked fine. That made me think that the power wire was bad. Turns out that it was, there was a crack in it. Went to the local auto store and purchased a new power wire- worked fine. I drove the car around for a while and now the starter will only make the clicking sound. On my old starter, I had a relay. I didn't hook it up when I installed my new starter. Is it possible that I need a relay? Or is there something else that I am missing.
I am certain that the starter works fine, I am certain that the battery works fine (600 cold cranking amps).
Thanks,
Steve
(PS- this is not my first post, my regular account isn't working.)
Starter Isses, Need Help!!!
-
Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22754
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Welcome to the forums!
2 thoughts:
1)The "bug booster" starter relay is a really good idea, done properly.
The original circuit (IIRC) has the starter power going from the battery, under the passenger seat to a (possibly badly done bypass) seat relay, to the ignition swicth, then back to the starter, with about a half dozen almost certainly old/loose/corroded electrical conections. (May hit the ig swich first, but you get my drift)
2) The battery terminal connections and the GROUNDS on the tranny/body must be clean & shiny and perfect... Hit them with some of the anti-corrosion of at least some dielectric grease for waterproofing and to prevent oxidation AFTER you clean them and before you make sure they are tight.
I run cables from the engine/trans upper bolts (pass side==easy) direct to the battery and to the body in the engine compartment where I can get to them for a ground.
OT, I also strongly suggest a relay for your headlights as the 75/76 models have... VW/Porsche changed that for a reason. A $5 horn relay works fine.
Makes for a significant and almost free lighting upgrade.
2 thoughts:
1)The "bug booster" starter relay is a really good idea, done properly.
The original circuit (IIRC) has the starter power going from the battery, under the passenger seat to a (possibly badly done bypass) seat relay, to the ignition swicth, then back to the starter, with about a half dozen almost certainly old/loose/corroded electrical conections. (May hit the ig swich first, but you get my drift)
2) The battery terminal connections and the GROUNDS on the tranny/body must be clean & shiny and perfect... Hit them with some of the anti-corrosion of at least some dielectric grease for waterproofing and to prevent oxidation AFTER you clean them and before you make sure they are tight.
I run cables from the engine/trans upper bolts (pass side==easy) direct to the battery and to the body in the engine compartment where I can get to them for a ground.
OT, I also strongly suggest a relay for your headlights as the 75/76 models have... VW/Porsche changed that for a reason. A $5 horn relay works fine.
Makes for a significant and almost free lighting upgrade.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.