seat bellts

[vonkr]

Does anybody know if the seat bellts for the 411/412 are unique for the type4 or can I use seat bellts of a beetle, type 3, etc. ? I want to install them for safety reason.

[Bill K.]

Hello Vonkr,

Sorry to have missed you on my trip to Holland this week. I completely forgot about giving you a call I did meet with Wally and he had just gotten a new pair of belts for his 2 door 412. He said the 412 belts are longer due to the long door and seat location.

seee yoou,
Bill

[raygreenwood]

With just a little work...like moving, removing or altering the locating pin on the seat belt winder assembly bracket next to the bolt and the sliding male buckle of the belt...a great number of seat belts will go in just fine, work just fine and look 90% factory. You are correct that teh wind-up length is a bit longer due to the configuration. Look mainly at the back seat belt winder assemblies on Audi's, and BMW's where the belt winder assembly goes over your shoulder and into teh back deck. Bear in mind that on some of these, the reel is mounted at an gle....and thus....the enertial locak assembly is angled and will not work in an alternate position.

The question you need to answer...is wether you need belts..or winders. If...like in my case you simply need new belting, they can be take nfrom a lot of German and Europena vehciles. Make sure the extended length is good and teh width is the same At that point....you can then take off teh end cap of the winder. Make sure it is the enertial lock end...and not the spring end of the winder. Removing the spring cover will be a disaster....trust me. Then pull the belt all the way out....counting the number of revolutions......so you can match the donor. Also measure the length to make sure the actual length matches the revolutions of wind-up. At the end of pulling the belt out...you will notcie that it goes through a slot in the winder axle...and has a steel pin inserted through a sewn in loop in the end of the belt. Use a thin screwdriver to lock teh winder in this loaded position....and carefully prise out the pin and loop. Make note of teh proper direction of insertion so there are no twists. Pull off the male buckle of your set and slide over the new belt. Check the orientation....then insert the belt loop through the axle...insert the pin, set it with a pull and slowly wind it up.

There are other things that can be done to actually swap winders...but it takes a bit more explaination. Ray

[Questor]

Does anyone know where I can get a parts diagram of VW 1972-75 3-point retractable front seat belt mechanism?

Like many other people, I made the mistake of taking off the snmall cover of a retractable seatbelt assembly to pull ot the belt that was stuck. At least I did not get hit by the spring that popped out.

I searched THE SAMBA and spent a lot of time looking on the Internet to no avail. I realize that it is safer to buy new than fix the old one, but I guess I'm stubborn and don't like to give up.

Any suggestions where I can find a VW retractable front seat belt mechanism drawing or diagram, anyone?

[raygreenwood]

I took mine with small mods from a BMW 5-series. Ray

[Lars S]

Dont think the VW parts books shows the interior of the belt mechanism, it is also likely that several brands (Autoliv etc) were used during this period, try Googling for belt make.


/Lars S

[vonkr]

Here's a schedule from the 411/412 parts book. I'm not sure if there are difference in year.

[raygreenwood]

Here is what I did: Remove your seat belt winder from the floor position. Look carefully at the bracket and the locating pin that goes into the hole in the body. You would be surprised at how many cars with a floor m,ounted winder have the same basic bracket. Also on some years of 411/412, the locating bracket is bolted to the winder actually allowing you to use more than a few others.

The trick is to wind your belt up to the retracted position...Mark the belt at the edge of the winder with seamstress chalk. Then pull it all the way out until the winder is empty and the holding pin is visible. Mark that and now you know the total belt length for reference.
If the spring is bunged up....pull of the end cap and just let it spin. while you wind and retract. I'm telling you this in case you need to actually also get the belt from another vehicle...which I have also done.

The important thing to also measure...by taking the off the end cover of the winder on the end that does not have the spring inside...its the thicker end.....is from fully retracted to fully pulled out....you need to count how many turns the spindle is wound up. Use any method you can to securely lock the spindle with the belt pulled all the way out. Mind your fingers.

At this point, with a thin screwdriver or pick, pull out the pin that holds teh belt into the slot. Remove the belt.

Now...this is important.......slowly start releasing the wound up winder assembly...counting backward the number of turns it has been wound up. When you reach the number you have counted....there will be several more that are the starting tension on the belt. Count them. Add that number to the number you had from fully retracted to fully pulled out.

When you find a winder in the junkyard that can be moved to your car....numerous Audis and BMW's from 70's and 80's...and some volvos if I recall correctly......pull teh betlt all teh way out. Remove the larger end slowly making sure there is no spring under it. Remove the pin and belt.

Now.....by hand..wind up the roller the correct number of preload turns...then the correct number of turns for full extension...feed your belt into the slot and make sure all of teh buckles are oriented properly. Intall pin...done.
I replaced both of my front belts thisway.

The winders you cannot use are those from three point systems installed in teh back seat and deck of four door audi's and BMW's. If they are installed at an angle....the locking pawl inside...for the inertial reel cannot function in the vertical position. Ray