as i have been rebuilding the 412 i removed the rear a arm and spring today as i was looking at fitting it all back i noticed the inner cv joint has locked up? im asuming its gone so far and thye bearings have jamed???
so is there a quick fix or is it a strip down???
and also whats the rear camber suposed to be set at is there a easy way to mesure this??
drive shaft and camber
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
The CV joints can lock up temporarily whne they are over-rotated in angle. What this usually means is that one or mall balls have slipped from the cage and are half in and half out of the groove. It alos tends to happen on joints where the cages are a bit worn. It does not mean that the joint is shot.
If yours is not at an odd angle...it may mean more of an issue. I would take it loose ....wiggle it and tap on ang exposed balls with a piece of wood...then clean and repack it.
I will have to check the book for camber specs. But there is no adjustment ofr it...only toe-in on the inner arm mount on each side. There is an eccentric bolt.
That being said......you can install an adjustment.....if you are game and have a die-grinder and drill.
Here is how it works:
(1) Remove both trailing arms. Yes...that means arms, shocks, springs sway bar.
(2) MARK CAREFULLY for in and out position...and... Remove the trailing arm mounts on both sides. Do not lose the backing plates and copper nuts.
(3) Make suer car is elevated enough to work.
(4) Notice the slots where the inner trailing arm mount went (the ones with the eccentric bolt). Captured inside of the rear beam....behind the slots for the mount...is a floating block of aluminum that keeps the tightening of the nuts from crushing the beam.....with me so far?
(5) With a felt pin.....mark the slots along their top edge....so you can take your die grinder and enlarge them about 1/8".
On the back side where the nuts were...take an angle grinder and smooth down the raised ridges that backstopped the backing plates and nuts. Now...enlarge the slots at the top edges....just like you did on the other isde of the beam.
(6) from the bottom of the beam...dead center between the two studs that hold the inner trailing arm mount on.....drill a 12mm hole through the bottom of the beam. This will come up under the aluminum block inside of the beam.
(7) thread that 12mm hole and put a bolt with a locknut in it.
That bolt will be used to turn upward...and by pushing on the aluminum spacer block...will lift the inner trailing arm mount upward....adjusting camber. Then you tighten the mounting nuts on the other side of the beam...done.
The best way to do this though...is to have somewone tack weld a thin jamb nut to the bottom of the beam so you are not relying on threads in just 1/8" of metal.
I have done this to mine. After the trailing arms are off it takes about three hours of grinding and work total. I then drove it to a shop to get it aligned and have the nuts tack welded.
I can't get pictures until probably October...my car is 1500 miles away in storage. But if you have the car apart....you will see what I mean the instant you have the mounts off.
Other than this there is no adjustment unless you device an offset inner eccentric bushing to replace the bonder rubber one. I have done that...its difficult and only allows a small adjustment. Ray
If yours is not at an odd angle...it may mean more of an issue. I would take it loose ....wiggle it and tap on ang exposed balls with a piece of wood...then clean and repack it.
I will have to check the book for camber specs. But there is no adjustment ofr it...only toe-in on the inner arm mount on each side. There is an eccentric bolt.
That being said......you can install an adjustment.....if you are game and have a die-grinder and drill.
Here is how it works:
(1) Remove both trailing arms. Yes...that means arms, shocks, springs sway bar.
(2) MARK CAREFULLY for in and out position...and... Remove the trailing arm mounts on both sides. Do not lose the backing plates and copper nuts.
(3) Make suer car is elevated enough to work.
(4) Notice the slots where the inner trailing arm mount went (the ones with the eccentric bolt). Captured inside of the rear beam....behind the slots for the mount...is a floating block of aluminum that keeps the tightening of the nuts from crushing the beam.....with me so far?
(5) With a felt pin.....mark the slots along their top edge....so you can take your die grinder and enlarge them about 1/8".
On the back side where the nuts were...take an angle grinder and smooth down the raised ridges that backstopped the backing plates and nuts. Now...enlarge the slots at the top edges....just like you did on the other isde of the beam.
(6) from the bottom of the beam...dead center between the two studs that hold the inner trailing arm mount on.....drill a 12mm hole through the bottom of the beam. This will come up under the aluminum block inside of the beam.
(7) thread that 12mm hole and put a bolt with a locknut in it.
That bolt will be used to turn upward...and by pushing on the aluminum spacer block...will lift the inner trailing arm mount upward....adjusting camber. Then you tighten the mounting nuts on the other side of the beam...done.
The best way to do this though...is to have somewone tack weld a thin jamb nut to the bottom of the beam so you are not relying on threads in just 1/8" of metal.
I have done this to mine. After the trailing arms are off it takes about three hours of grinding and work total. I then drove it to a shop to get it aligned and have the nuts tack welded.
I can't get pictures until probably October...my car is 1500 miles away in storage. But if you have the car apart....you will see what I mean the instant you have the mounts off.
Other than this there is no adjustment unless you device an offset inner eccentric bushing to replace the bonder rubber one. I have done that...its difficult and only allows a small adjustment. Ray