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You could go back to the style of VR sensor I have with the trigger wheel in the front of the pulley. That would allow a little more deviation on endplay.

Nah, the motor hasn't been apart in a couple of years. It's time to check everything anyway. I had a dyno tuning appt in March, after that I planned on pulling it down anyway to freshin it up for the race season. Things are just getting changed around a bit.

Steve Arndt wrote:.006 is worn out, beyond the wear limit.

Most good crank grinders (DRP) recommend .006", I didn't make it up.
.003- .005" is the range for a stock hp motor with the gland nut torqued to 215 ft lbs and a stock crank, almost never the case. A stock motor probably won't see 6500 rpm with the clutch in either.

New Tial 38mm wastegate lets me boost up to 15psi but drops to 11psi. I installed it today and had been running a generic WG but it held pressure fine.

I plumbed the Tial in the same way (boost controller to the lower port) and lowered the boost controller to the lowest setting as this Tial WG has a 14psi spring. I also tried bypassing the boost controller and it boosts to ~14psi but drops to 9psi after the gate opens. One other thing that is different from the old gate is that the Tial is LOUD as phawkkkk!!! I thought the flippin' exhaust came off when I first hammered it.

Anyone else running a Tial with and MBC? If so, how do you have it plumbed? My MBC is one of the more expensive Hallman controllers and has worked flawlessly for a long time and I've already ruled the controller out. I may end up having to bite the bullet to get an EBC so I can have something controlling the top port of the WG and I have no problem doing that but I'd like to know if I'm doing something wrong to begin with with the way it is setup now. Current setup is: BOOST SOURCE>>>MBC IN>>>MBC OUT>>>WG BOTTOM PORT

No matter what I try it seems to drop a consistent 5psi as soon as the gate opens. Open to any suggestions and thanks in advance.

p.s. - Even at a modest 9psi, this cars still hauls some serious a$$! Older Cobra (pre 2000 model I'm guessing) was WAAAAAY back from a stop sign start through third gear. I love it!!!!

I ran one, it was rock solid every time. I will be running it again soon. I used Tial's diagram for the plumbing of it. Never had a problem.
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_t ... nstall.pdf

Did you also use an MBC? I'm using the Hallman ball and spring type and guess that I should try connecting as pictured in the diagram to see what happens but it didn't make sense to me to have a hose connected to the top and the bottom and I read so much conflicting information on doing so. I saw that illustration when I was ready to install the Tial gate but also found a Tial instruction that stated to leave the top port open which is how I had the old gate set up.

I know that it's a quality gate and it's brand new so it's most likely due to the top port being open. When you ran one Chip was it super LOUD? I know when I hammer it with the wife in the car that it is going to scare the sheeeit out of her.

Thanks a bunch for the response.

Hey Speedster

I have never run a MBC so I don't know how they act. I use MS and an boost solenoid. I wonder if this one is just opening more than your last gate (louder). It is after all just a large exhaust leak pre turbo. I can hear mine open for sure.

As for the boost peak and dip, where is your WG plumbed from? At the collector or one cylinder like the CB header?

Yesterday's problem.
When fitting a deep sump: on the crank case is the oil pick up, it's bolted down inside the case, this bolt becomes impossible to remove once the case halves are together. Sods law, to fit my extended sump correctly it needs to be removed and replaced with an Allen key head bolt so it can be tightened through the holes in the extended sump!

1938vw wrote:Yesterday's problem.
When fitting a deep sump: on the crank case is the oil pick up, it's bolted down inside the case, this bolt becomes impossible to remove once the case halves are together. Sods law, to fit my extended sump correctly it needs to be removed and replaced with an Allen key head bolt so it can be tightened through the holes in the extended sump!

On my case it was a longer stud that had a nut holding the sump down.

Are you trying to remove it in order to put a longer one in???

MarioVelotta wrote:Hey Speedster

I have never run a MBC so I don't know how they act. I use MS and an boost solenoid. I wonder if this one is just opening more than your last gate (louder). It is after all just a large exhaust leak pre turbo. I can hear mine open for sure.

As for the boost peak and dip, where is your WG plumbed from? At the collector or one cylinder like the CB header?

WG is plumbed at the collector. I will try installing per the diagram and report back. Will be a few days before I get home.

Clonebug wrote:

1938vw wrote:Yesterday's problem.
When fitting a deep sump: on the crank case is the oil pick up, it's bolted down inside the case, this bolt becomes impossible to remove once the case halves are together. Sods law, to fit my extended sump correctly it needs to be removed and replaced with an Allen key head bolt so it can be tightened through the holes in the extended sump!

On my case it was a longer stud that had a nut holding the sump down.

Are you trying to remove it in order to put a longer one in???

Yes, I tried to use two nuts to lock it to remove it no joy! Done it now though. My design has 6 threaded holes in the extended sump to take the sump plate and 6 slightly larger holes to fit an Allen key through to tighten the 6 bolts inside that hold it to the case. Does that make sense?
12 holes on the bottom of the extended sump (6 threaded 6 not) then inside 6 holes to bolt it to the case.

56speedster wrote:Did you also use an MBC? I'm using the Hallman ball and spring type and guess that I should try connecting as pictured in the diagram to see what happens but it didn't make sense to me to have a hose connected to the top and the bottom and I read so much conflicting information on doing so. I saw that illustration when I was ready to install the Tial gate but also found a Tial instruction that stated to leave the top port open which is how I had the old gate set up.

I know that it's a quality gate and it's brand new so it's most likely due to the top port being open. When you ran one Chip was it super LOUD? I know when I hammer it with the wife in the car that it is going to scare the sheeeit out of her.

Thanks a bunch for the response.

I used a MBC, everything worked as it should have, boost was very stable right up to my target, as well as very reliable. I do not remember if the gate was loud, the whole car was very loud also, the ball and spring controllers are a little more on/off than my old turboXS MBC. So mine probably slowly opened the valve making a smooth transition to open. Yours probably hits the target then pops open the valve, almost BOV style. With my new EBC I expect it to be more noisey like yours.

1938vw wrote:

Clonebug wrote:

1938vw wrote:Yesterday's problem.
When fitting a deep sump: on the crank case is the oil pick up, it's bolted down inside the case, this bolt becomes impossible to remove once the case halves are together. Sods law, to fit my extended sump correctly it needs to be removed and replaced with an Allen key head bolt so it can be tightened through the holes in the extended sump!

On my case it was a longer stud that had a nut holding the sump down.

Are you trying to remove it in order to put a longer one in???

Yes, I tried to use two nuts to lock it to remove it no joy! Done it now though. My design has 6 threaded holes in the extended sump to take the sump plate and 6 slightly larger holes to fit an Allen key through to tighten the 6 bolts inside that hold it to the case. Does that make sense?
12 holes on the bottom of the extended sump (6 threaded 6 not) then inside 6 holes to bolt it to the case.

Just leave off the allen that would go where the pickup tube is bolted. In other words, just use 5 of the 6 bolts. Works just fine.

Thats what I did

The problem today... its raining and too nasty out to go tuning the Bug.