Why did you pick the Type 4 conversion?

[oprn]

I picked a type 4 engine for the reasons outlined in a previous post on this thread. Namely because I had one lying around and for their reputation for long life and dependability. This is to be a long distance retirement cruiser for a couple of old farts.


That said I was looking for a bit more in the giddy-up go department but nothing radical. What I got has far exceeded my expectations. This engine is truly the "big block" of the VWs! It gives this old plastic toy Buggy a kick in the pants big time!

I do not really understand why the difference is so great. The engine specs have not really changed that radically.

Old engine:

Basically stock 1600 DP with extractor exhaust and Kadrons. Ran well enough to feel sporty around town and keep up with the traffic on the highway. Typical air cooled performance in a light car.

New engine:

Stock Bus 1700 fare freshened up with new rings(previous owner installed the 96mm jugs)very mild Web cam(idles at 500rpm cold if I want it to)fresh stock 1700 heads, Weber 40s and a home made dual exhaust 1.5" into 1.75" with 2 off road mufflers. Nothing to explain this kind of power boost. It feels like at least double the power! This is slightly less than a 20% increase in displacement.

[1302Jbug]

Hello, my name is Jonathan.I`ll anticipate you that english is not my primary language so forgive me.

I `ve been away from the VW life since 2005, the last time I had a T4 conversion on the initial process back in 2005 to be made but since I left were I used to live I put it aside. Now I live in LA and I hope I won`t give up this time.

As my initial recollection of useful junk I found this engine almost dead and I wanted to consult with you If it is worthy $100 and posible to revive it with sandblasting. Any help will be appreciated
type4 rust

[bushoarder]

This is why you pick a type 4:



Look how flat the torque curve is!!


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[Ephry73]

This is why you pick a type 4:



Look how flat the torque curve is!!


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Not bad and also at the right Rpms.

What are the specs of the motor and tranny?


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[bushoarder]

It’s an 1800 industrial engine. 1800 big valve heads, twin 40 idfs, 4-1 header and turbo muffler.
Late bay electronic dizzy with vacuum.

Unknown compression ratio and cam, but should be stock 1800 if guess.


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[Ephry73]

It’s an 1800 industrial engine. 1800 big valve heads, twin 40 idfs, 4-1 header and turbo muffler.
Late bay electronic dizzy with vacuum.

Unknown compression ratio and cam, but should be stock 1800 if guess.


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Hate to quote Jake, but the man knew his stuff, get a better sparking system. The Mallory optical was amazing and steady at any RPM. What’s the jetting like on the 40s?


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[Piledriver]

Late bay electronic is same electrically as mid 80s VW Golf, uses a decent coil and is hall effect triggered...
can work awesome, and can be recurved in 2 minutes.
If its not worn out a unilite is no upgrade.,
(the electronic module on unilites is delicate to the point of needing to own a spare IMHO)

[bushoarder]

I’m happy with the late bay dizzy, without the DIS it’s pretty steady and reliable.

I may upgrade the Hall effect and connectors to a mk2 golf purely because they are slightly better, but for now it’s all ok.

Jetting:

Idles 50
Mains 125
Air 200
Emulsion f11
Pump - ?? 33 prob.

It’s ok, some stumbles around transition / 2k which could be the CB linkage - not great on the type 4 upright as it has a cantilevered bolt to actuate one carb so flexes a bit. Going to upgrade to CSP soon



Pic has the air fuel ratio vs hp on it - little rich, but the chap sets them up that way. Dizzy is at 30 degrees max and we took 2 deg off that and lost 3hp. Happy at 30 on the t4.

I do want to go efi at some point as it’ll be so much better to drive for a family vehicle but happy for now


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[raygreenwood]

Yes...I have been saying this for a couple of decades now as well. The best thing you can do for a type 4 (besides cam and exhaust)...is upgrade the ignition.

The simplest noticeable upgrade ...without even any better control...that will allow noticeable ability to tune fuel slightly better is to carefully and tightly rebuild teh stock distributor. Blueprint it and the points plate and mechanical advance system....and add a points replacement module and a Pertronix 42Kv coil with good spark plugs.

Next up as Piledriver and others have mentioned...slave in a system from a digifant or Mk1 or 2 water pumper with hall effect and 55kv coil....excellent!

Anything you can do to get better control of advance will also help.

One of my projects I will be working on this year...is that I bought about five brand new VW rabbit GTI hall effect rebuild kits (Beck Arnley) from Rock Auto for about $20 each a year or so ago. Complete with module, pigtail, shutter wheel, snap rings etc. I just need the module and coil and I can slave it into a stock distributor with an adjustable vacuum advance unit (may go to a lockout mechanical with a Black box). Ray

[Bruce.m]

Looking forward to that teaching blog

[Ephry73]

Late bay electronic is same electrically as mid 80s VW Golf, uses a decent coil and is hall effect triggered...
can work awesome, and can be recurved in 2 minutes.
If its not worn out a unilite is no upgrade.,
(the electronic module on unilites is delicate to the point of needing to own a spare IMHO)

That’s great to know. Didn’t think these were that good specially with age.


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[Piledriver]

The big win is the low impedance coil and the dwell controlling driver module.
A pertronix/compufire setup or even points can run that module...

~about as good as it gets with a single coil/distributor setup.
Still has more to go wrong with moving HV bits vs CNP or COPS, but it works well.

[Glasser]

Like most torque and reliability. I had Fat Performance build me one of their signature 2650cc out of my 914 type IV. It's got great hp and even more torque 200 ft/lbs ! We built it at 8.5:1 compression so it's pretty tame for a high performance motor. Once you drive with this kind of torque you will happily open up your wallet.
No, It wasn't cheap... But in order to get the hp and torque out of a type 1 it would not last. I only wanted to build one engine, so I went all in. 5th head studs were added, I got Fat to do all the tricks they had learned over the many many years of R&D.
It runs hard, fast and cool! I have it all.

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[bushoarder]

I can only imagine the drive in the buggy with all that power and torque available!!

I want a 2.4 or 2.6 t4 just don’t have the cash yet!


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[Glasser]

It's pretty much a sling shot just waiting for the rubber band to be let go.
Stay on track with your plan and make sure you have enough money in the budget for a brake upgrade. That's next on my to do list. Hoping by the end of the summer, like you say no cash yet!