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Steve Arndt wrote:

ONEBADBUG wrote:
Frank, if you drilled holes through both plates just above the adjuster bolt, then clamped it down with a 1/2 -20 bolt and nut, it would stop the movement on the adjuster.
Steve

The bolt head will hit the shock tower casting on the inside. That doesn't work.

Hmmmm....

Of course you could just clearance the shock tower to clear the bolt head. Just don't make any road trips into Guatemala.

I have not held one of the ride height adjustable spring plates before so I am not sure exactly how they work (the mechanics) nor do I remember seeing the first STF post asking for my opinion on what sounds like the same subject. I did find this though: http://www.airsouls.com/how-tos/adj_spr_plates.htm so if you wanted to make your own and at the same time modify it to add some caster change (???) this might be of some help.

All I think is see is a quick ride-height adjusting mechanism for ride height and I don't fully understand the caster reference (but I also haven't thought about it either) other than the effects might be caused by the suspension and axle arcs. This might do the same thing: http://www.mooreparts.com/Brakes-%26-Re ... Adjusters/ but it would not allow each side to be adjusted separately either.

I have only heard that the adjustable spring plates have a tendency to wear fast but again (and maybe the adjuster bolt backing off occasionally); that is only what I hear... no facts. I'm fighting a cold, allergies or something right now so I am kind of rummy part of the time (right now being an example ).

I have heard on the dunes they don't work well and get "dirty" between the two pieces so they were not worth looking into. I was slo told to do it right the first time. On the track or auto-cross course that might not be a problem.

http://www.racecartuner.com/03/307.html

I found this the other day when looking for something else but never posted it so just for the heck of it: http://www.racecartuner.com/03/307.html