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FJ...it sounds like your original proportion problem long ago was with the proportioning valve itself...many of them are limited in volume....or they do not have proper knob resolution (meaning not enough turns for adjusting....not enough step increments). A lot of people I have talked to over the years with serious big brakes use a separate proportioning valve for each side of the rear...identical...but flowing volume to only one side.

Some of the larger proportioning valves have 1 or 2 inputs...and three outputs for rear (or front depending on how you sue them). In this manner you could run say one pair of pistons...one in each caliper from a splitter from the third output port of the proportioning valve....and a single line to each calipers remaining pistons from the # 1 and 2 ports. Ray

Hi Steve,

I was wondering/considering that we might get lucky and our master cylinder would not provide enough pressure to the Wilwood clones for early lockup.

I have a 3000 psi brake caliper pressure gauge and will post our findings as soon as I get the brake line adapters.

Thanks,

FJC

I have a valve for the rear brakes on Dori, but it's currently left wide open. When I swap to discs and a good pedal assembly with bias adjustment I'm planning to set the bias for a touch of early rear lock up and then use the valve to tweak the rear bias to compensate for surface variations. This was always the plan, but the stock system isn't acting as I imagined it would.

Hi TouringBubble,

If you have your rear drums in place, keep them. I was thinking you already have front disks?

A conversion to rear disks is only justified for a serious road racing effort.

We've had excellent results with the humble ATE/VARGA calipers, in 14-hour endurance races, and recommend them highly.

FJC