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justing asking the question , because sometimes the simple things can get missed by the best people , is the CSP oil filter block off on the right way ?

By the sound off it the switch is the culprit , does the light go off when you disconnect the the switch ,(if not a short in the wiring .)

Good call, I'll take a look at the block off plate tommorow. I still have the oem filter assembly, so I'll probably just reinstall it for now. I did verify the pressure light goes off when disconnected, and on when grounding the wire.

Ok, I verified that the csp oil filter blockoff was installed correctly, but replaced it with the oem filter (filled with oil), and replaced the csp oil filter adapter (with fittings to full flow), with the version with no ports (blockoff), and had the same issue.

I picked up a manual pressure gauge, and it's not reading anything when cranking,l. I used some compressed air to verify that the gauge and the pressure switch are working fine. I verified again that oil comes out of each location: pressure sensor, oil cooler, and oil filter, when cranking.

I did change the oil again to mark my dipstick at 4 quarts, but it didn't change anything, as expected.

The engine turns over freely by hand (fan belt, etc), in and out of the car. The starter is a compu-fire high torque/self supporting, and the battery is an oddysey gel cell, both new.

I keep feeling like the starter isn't spinning the engine over fast enough, but I'm not sure yet. It's effortless with the plugs/rockers off, but the rpm might be low. Will look for videos, and could swap to an OEM starter to verify.

Is it possible low cranking rpms could cause the issue?

With the plugs out it should still spin over fast enough to start building pressure . I'd get in contact with Jakob if you haven't already done that . something else to check is that the oil pressure relief valve is not stuck .

Yup. Check relief valve.
Has the oil galleries been drilled/ tapped?
If so, does that include the one in the bell housing next to the fuel pump bore (is that blocked off or never opened)?

I'll check the relief valve, hopefully today. The oil galleries have been drill/tapped, and I believe I saw a blockoff plate on the oem fuel pump location. Thanks!

Quote from somewhere else. I’m sure I’ve read similar stories here.

“Type 4 carbed engine cases that no longer have a fuel pump installed, need to be checked for a gaping fuel pump pushrod hole that intersects the right lifter gallery. If it has not been sleeved, well, you will be amazed at how much oil pressure you can not-have in an otherwise tight engine.”

The relief valve/spring near the oil filter was fine, it fell right out, so I reinstalled it, after verifying the direction. I haven't checked the other one near the #1 pushrod tubes (saw in a post here on stf), but can do that this week.

I need to look at the fuel pump area again, but removed the blockoff and confirmed the push rod was removed. Nothing else obvious, etc.

@Clatter - does that replace the oil relief piston to eliminate the spring/bypass?

Quick update: It's running now, and has good oil pressure (60+ lbs revving while cold)!

I ended up pulling the engine, reassembled the valve train, adjusted the valves (slightly), set the initial timing, and replaced the high torque starter.

I reinstalled it, and it fired up, but if didn't want to idle and I could hear an exhaust leak. I tightened a loose exhaust stub pipe, readjusted the carb linkage, and it fired right up, idled(decently), and revved freely (sounds awesome). I'll work on the carbs/timing more this week.

I did notice the a-1 1 5/8"muffler is really close to by passenger rear tire, and my full flow oil filter on the other side. I bolted up a csp python 1 3/4", but the muffler hit the passenger rear brake caliper, so I would need to shorten the pipe on the muffler. Anyone else have clearance issues? I'm not sure how the csp fits anyone's car!

Thanks!

great you've got oil pressure and have a running engine . Ghia's don't have much room for an exhaust . I don't have any experience with either of your exhausts but something I use that I am really impressed with is this aluminium heat shield . It works as well as fibreglass wrap .

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAT-SHIELD ... 2749.l2649

rioprelude wrote: ↑Tue Aug 27, 2019 10:49 am @Clatter - does that replace the oil relief piston to eliminate the spring/bypass?

Correct.

There is a small aluminum spacer they sell to lock the plunger in the full bottomed position.

This takes the early double relief case and makes it into a single-relief like the later cases.