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Got ya, yeah I guessed it was, thanks for the help on the matter bud

I should really get a “birt cert” from VW as it would be cool to see but there expensive now!

I’ve got my two boxes side by side and I’m just going to swap the nose cones over.
The type 3 box cone has two holes to mount the nose cone mount with and my current box nose cone has two holes to mount its two bolt mount too.
While they’re side by side I may as well just swap them.

The input shaft is a little rusty from being stood so I’ll put some rust remover gel on it and wire brush it before attempting to sweat and fit it

update....

so i went to swap the nose cones and the T3 box which has been sat a while by the looks of it, has seised solid shifting arms i can get one to move a smidge by knocking it and levering it but the others wont move even with a hammer
the outputs flanges turn, but the main input doesn't turn yet.....

any tips or just keep soaking it and hitting it?

Andy, I don't do Transmissions but I was told many years ago not to use BFH (and the "F" does not stand for Ford) on softer metals. Use leather heads, rubber heads or plastic heads that are softer than metal and won't as easily damage or break the softer metals.

You said one side it loose: try twisting or rocking the nose cone but not too far and break the flanges. I think there are some liquids out there that can work but don't use things like energy drinks and the like that are acidic as they can etch soft metals.

Beware of applying heat; mostly the problem with it is: when is too much heat and when is too little heat. The difference often comes very quickly.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Rusted ... e-At-Last/

This may or may not be of some use.

Lee

I am soaking it with PlusGas which is good penitent in the UK

but yes i should probably lay off the "persuader" and use the hide face hammer

andy198712 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 26, 2018 2:42 am the outputs flanges turn, but the main input doesn't turn yet.....

Grab both flanges and try to turn the the same way. If you can't, that means the pinion shaft is stuck.
Put a clutch disc on the input shaft and try to turn it.

If you can't turn either shaft, and you can't move any shift rods, it's either all busted up inside, or it got a lot of water in it a long time ago.

Andy, to state the obvious: the deal with the hammering is not necessarily to drive things apart but to set up vibrations that can have certain reaction within the unwanted joining of metals that sometimes happen; the vibration can sometimes cause their un-joining. One of the reasons you don't want to beat the crap out if metal just to "massage" or "finesse" it into doing what you want nor do you want the potential damage that can be caused by the "victimizing" of the units .

Bruce is a pro tranny guy from what I have heard; he knows his business so I am sure his advice is correct.

Lee

Thanks Bruce i'll try that tomorrow, probably need to run a couple bolts in either side and use some levers

Ol'fogasaurus wrote: ↑Sun Aug 26, 2018 7:00 pm Andy, to state the obvious: the deal with the hammering is not necessarily to drive things apart but to set up vibrations that can have certain reaction within the unwanted joining of metals that sometimes happen; the vibration can sometimes cause their un-joining. One of the reasons you don't want to beat the crap out if metal just to "massage" or "finesse" it into doing what you want nor do you want the potential damage that can be caused by the "victimizing" of the units .

Bruce is a pro tranny guy from what I have heard; he knows his business so I am sure his advice is correct.

Lee

yeah i stopped after a few good whacks as i thought of the shape of the forks and leverage on them ect it was a cheap box and if it is junk i'll just chop it to be a starter ring and maybe a jig for setting up shifters?

its jammed solid at the minute, one rotates fine and spins the other one the other way, but both at the same time were not playing ball