Thinking of going large = CC

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Well I've a feeling a taking a trip to go and see it might be a wasted journey. I doubt he'd let me take a head off, but like you say it is what's needed. I could measure the stroke while I'm there. It would also need a couple of pistons removing so I could look inside the case at the clearance work. Also in my opinion its over priced. so my offer would be way off , New parts even if unused are still 2nd hand parts if sold on to another person. Which lowers the price by half depending on how popular the items are. Type 4 tuned motor aren't really that popular in the UK. Its mostly Type 1

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Well Ahendorp bas did get back to me ,they don't have any cranks.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Guys, I Like 96mm cylinders for turbo use ,BUT...…
Are the large bore cylinders too thin at the head end for turbo use.
I might just get another case and start my next project from there. be a shame to strip the one I have now.
If large bore has good wall thickness ,may as well take advantage of them

[wreck]

the issue with the 103-105+ cylinders is not the cylinders but the heads ,(my 103mm cylinders have a 6mm wall at the head.) A lot of material is machined away . With the rectangular stud pattern the heads flex .

AA did make a 98mm biral cylinder set that would be a nice compromise but I noticed it's not on their web site any more .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

So better stick with 96's then if the 98's are out of stock

[Ephry73]

I have the chance of an unused 96 x78 type 4 motor , I'm trying to put a fair price bid in for it.
The advert says
96 x78
web cam .unknown spec
pauter rockers
type 1 followers
big valve heads
cromo fly
dry sump pump, don't really need that
remmelle front pully
Thing is with engines its the buyers risk all the time.
Has it got the above parts, who no's
Is the machine work good
Is the case cracked.
bad port job
The list could go on and on
So how would you value it.
To me it would have to be stripped and inspected 1st before you give ya hard earned cash away.

I could build my own ,but if there is one that's all done it saves loads of time.

That combo is amazing torque wise. That’s what I had on my Ghia ages ago. Looking for parts for that build myself. Even a mild camshaft with good ignition will be a great torquer.


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[cal 67]

Jorge says he’s sold a 90mm stroke with 2.0 journals before. The builder was using a custom rod. I don’t know how that guy fared. You may be able to run such a long stoke with the new Honda journal stuff Pauter is doing. I just ordered some Pauter aluminum conrods for my 66 stroke. Even being aluminum, they are .160” narower than a stock 1700 rod on the big ends (bolt-to-bolt).

Base circle: the smaller you have to make it, the less reliable it becomes. I haven’t thought about it much, but I think the lifters see higher speeds when the lobes shrink.

Also, why so big? How are you going to feed it? Even if your goal was only 5500 rpm power, you’d be looking for about 280-300 intake CFM. Pieper heads should be in your budget, WITH extra porting.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Why so big. Well I like a challenge. It will be just a cc increase on the original turbo type 4 that I'm running at the moment. I'm using well ported heads already.
Challenge wise .If doing a large stroke crank is difficult to do then I wanna give it a go.
If it needs Cunningham rods tho I might not bother, far too pricey I think.

[Clatter]

I'm guessing you've seen this thread;
Not really applicable as it's full drag and N/A,
But some really good discussion buried within re: building a big type 4.
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,3960.510.html

[wreck]

my choice for a boosted engine for strength , stock 66mm crank . If you want to stroke it then keep to type 1 journal size for strength , as well as the cheaper rods . I can't give any first hand experience which would be better , an brand new AA 78mm or a DPR welded crank . (In the economy side of parts)

You can get Moldex cranks or other custom one off cranks that would be built proof but you pay for that . Some one in Europe may have better cranks than AA for a reasonable price but I doubt it .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I believe the Elnef crank broke due to 8k side stepping the clutch, Plus its looking like the bigger the stroke the more likely that UNDER EXTREME drag race starts it will break it , yes a 66 crank wont break because its not got any swing on the rods, its only 66mm , A Big stroke street motor wouldn't break like that. Think I'll leave it as it is then, I could go bigger pistons but there's issues with that. The only upgrade I can see is to swap out the rods for some lighter ones , AA have them. Mine are just balanced stockers with ARP bolts.

[wreck]

See if John still has these in stock . Stock rods with arp bolts would take a lot of boost .
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cyl ... t4b-je.htm

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I use stock VW rods with the ARP bolts already. There strong because there heavy and short. If I could get a rod half the weight and 2 mm shorter that would be awesome. I'd have a better deck measurement than I do now.
I don't think a good aftermarket rod for 66 crank exists though

[cal 67]

I use stock VW rods with the ARP bolts already. There strong because there heavy and short. If I could get a rod half the weight and 2 mm shorter that would be awesome. I'd have a better deck measurement than I do now.
I don't think a good aftermarket rod for 66 crank exists though

I made mine. Pauter 4.78", Honda/Nascar journal, 22mm pin. 470g per rod. Pauter has some overstock ~5.15" super lightweight Honda jrl steel rods right now.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

470g is going on for half the weight of standard.
I'd looking for a straight swap without splitting the case.
Someone will make them . maybe