upright turbo build

[Piledriver]

Piston guided doesn't require mods to the crank, it needs the piston made a specific way, with about .005" side clearance to the rod small end, and forced pin oiling from the oil ring groove.

Simple button: Just buy the right 2l/22mm pin t4 rods from emw... and perhaps the cheap 94mm forged 2xxx slugs from AA.
That way you are using off the shelf parts.

[tonyorlo]

Pile, I never saw your reply till now sorry.

5 years later and I’ve accomplished nothing with this build. 3 kids and a new house slowed things down lol. I recently met a guy local to me who sells performance VW parts and can do machine work. He had me talked into going with a 1915 T1 using a new aluminum case and all the normal stuff. I was just about to pull the trigger on it and am leary. I still think T4 is the better way to go. He won’t do machine work on T4s so I am still at a loss on that.

Anyway, I sure did a lot of talking on here and never really accomplished anything. There’s a lot of great information from you guys and I hope if someone’s searches it helps them out.

I like the idea of all new stuff with the T1 build, but T4 just seems better. In the next few days I’m going to order the bottom end. I think I’m just going to go with a 2.0l setup. DPR crank, H beams and 96s. I won’t have to deal with local machine shops or shipping parts back and forth except for the heads.

[Piledriver]

T4s dont need a counterweighted crank... Spend the $$$ on a good balance job.
I've heard much bad news about certain cali t4 head suppliers, shop and research hard.
Note that EMW has been doing t4s since they were still being made...There isnt much they cannot do, even if it isnt listed on their lame website/

The only other engine I've considered would be oxyboxer but with watercooled heads, and the radiators possibly integrated into the fan housing...
...or an ez3.6r, for my vanagon.

[NextGen]

Hi Piledriver and Tony,

To answer your question about what it better. Photos are a thousand words!

I built my first T-4 Cali Style in 1989 Wrote the manual in 1992.

Same engine never opened, for any reason, only valve adjustments ( another post with more photos ( inexpensive breather I posted yesterdsay )

30 years the car blasts from 60 to 100 in seconds. Will not do it again only up to 95mph the front lifts, steering becomes light.
Never babied the car.

Just Visited Chris Vallone the Classic VW builder to the Stars today an old friend. Showed him my new tinted windshield.
If you are going to put a T-4 in a bug and you don't go performace crazy, I have a 2.0 8.5 to 1 compression regular gas.

T-4 is the way to go.

As I said i don't baby it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ap0NeT2Q2vc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIkhkOpF7kU







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deD2JxpUA48 Put up the Volume

[NextGen]

I think I over loaded my last post,

go here to see the engine in the bug now 2020

[NextGen]

OK here are the photos.


https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopi ... 1&t=151801

[tonyorlo]

Pile,

Thanks for the reply! I’ve read so much about CW cranks for years, then recently I discovered some info that says they aren’t necessary, exactly like you said. I contacted George at EMW, discussed what I wanted and I sent him an email with an item list.

I just want to get it together without a ton of machine work. So 2.0 DPR crank, H beams and 96mm JEs. I can buy it all mail order.

The cam I’m looking at is a Web 119 with the wide LSA.

I’ve also contacted John at aircooled.net. His website is super user friendly. But like you said, EMW does much more than their site shows.

T4s dont need a counterweighted crank... Spend the $$$ on a good balance job.
I've heard much bad news about certain cali t4 head suppliers, shop and research hard.
Note that EMW has been doing t4s since they were still being made...There isnt much they cannot do, even if it isnt listed on their lame website/

The only other engine I've considered would be oxyboxer but with watercooled heads, and the radiators possibly integrated into the fan housing...
...or an ez3.6r, for my vanagon.

[tonyorlo]

OK here are the photos.


https://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopi ... 1&t=151801

Joe,

Thanks for the reply! I purchased your manual about 7 years ago and it really got me started on going to T4. You have a very impressive story. Especially how long that cars been going with that engine.

The ONLY reasons I considered type 1 was because I’m able to build a completely new engine, no used parts. That and no one locally would touch them.

I just got a 914 on trade and I plan to start on it next once the Ghias done and I get a bigger garage built. I figure bows a good time to jump in to the T4 world!

[NextGen]

I miss my last 914, the guys that sold me my unused T-4 Training engine that is the one I wrote the manual about and still dirve was Manhattan Porsche.

They were moving and my friend called and 2.0 for $250 YIPES!!!!

They also told me about a 914 in a South Bronx Garage - Fort Apache for 10 years. Took a machine gun and bought the Car $1500. 1 year to restore 2 years of driving and then a guy drops oil on a mountain road and I total it.

Restored you 914 will get big bucks.

[tonyorlo]

I traded my 94 jaguar daily driver for this car and cash. The car is valued at $1000 for the trade. Is needs a lot of sheet metal that needs changed. Luckily it’s all restamped now. These cars went up in value like crazy too.

[NextGen]

Yep easy $30k or more when running .
See Jay Leno garage on youtube 914 video. Very informative.

[tonyorlo]

Yeah my jaw dropped when I saw the book value ranging from 12-30k. It’s more of an investment at that point.

So I finally did it, Talked to George at EMW. Going with a offset ground 1.8 crank, h beams, and 96mm JEs. Not so budget friendly, but any other route was going to require machine work, and that’s not cheap. So I’d rather save the headache and buy “off the shelf” dimensions. I’ll post pictures up. Should I start a new thread once I begin? There’s a ton of good discussion on piston choices in this one though.

[Piledriver]

If you plan on putting any mileage on it I strongly recommend 4032 alloy JEs or Wisecos vs the typical buttery soft 2xxx alloy.

The soft stuff is great for high boost etc but the ring lands are going to be shot by 10k miles.
Wiseco does not even recommend the soft alloy for endurance racing.

4032 is typically used by oems for boosted use. It wears like cast pistons, but much stronger.
(Subaru used it on WRX/STIs, regular WRX gets hypereutetic cast)

I'm kinda bummed that (finacially speaking) I should really keep my creamsicle stock, rather than put GT fenders etc on.
I'm probably going to do it anyway. as I already have the fenders, and should have my shop finally built this fall.

[tonyorlo]

If you plan on putting any mileage on it I strongly recommend 4032 alloy JEs or Wisecos vs the typical buttery soft 2xxx alloy.

The soft stuff is great for high boost etc but the ring lands are going to be shot by 10k miles.
Wiseco does not even recommend the soft alloy for endurance racing.

4032 is typically used by oems for boosted use. It wears like cast pistons, but much stronger.
(Subaru used it on WRX/STIs, regular WRX gets hypereutetic cast)

I'm kinda bummed that (finacially speaking) I should really keep my creamsicle stock, rather than put GT fenders etc on.
I'm probably going to do it anyway. as I already have the fenders, and should have my shop finally built this fall.

I am somewhat worried about this. I know JE recommends an 2xxx alloy. I told George at EMW that I am turboing this and he suggested these. He said they are cut already to lower the compression (15cc I think is what he told me). I liked the idea of Wiseco 94s better honestly. I’ll give him a call Monday and talk to him some more about this.

I am prepping my case now to have it ready. I have a few head studs that just don’t want to come out. A few came out no problem and look good, but others do have some rust and don’t want to come out of the case. Should I replace all the them? Is there even a new replacement option for these?

Yeah if I had a GT it wouldn’t get touched at all. That’s going to be big money in the near future.

[wreck]

I checked the ring lands on my 103 JE's (2618 alloy) with 20,000km , they were a little worn but still in spec . I'll strip it again in another 20-30k and check again , gut feeling will be I'll need new pistons then but you never know .
I didn't measure them when new so don't really have accurate wear data ,generally though the more worn ,the quicker the wear develops .