Bonemaro wrote:Judging what you saw with the 5.5"ers, do you think I have a remote chance with 7.5"?
I only had about 3/4" clearance outboard (but hard to judge as that aft top side changes relation as the suspension compresses), and 1/2" on the inboard side everywhere.
Bone, it is more about the tire than the wheel itself. stretch some 165's onto a 7.5" rim a' la watercooler guys like "stance", and they will fit all day. (assuming offset is moderately close)
now, that being said, I could probably pick up another 1.0 in clearance by changing one of the trailing arm bolts to a lower profile head, and trimming the bump stop a bit, as those were the two closest points on the inboard side, and maybe a bit more stretching of the fender on the outboard side.
(NOTE: I had already rolled only the lip of the fender "baseball bat style" to allow clearance on the 8 spokes, which really have a poor offset for the Ghia, and really cannot be milled much more than a few MM before you run into caliper/drum interference with the actual spokes themselves)
Taking a look at it from a professional metalworker's standpoint, the proper way to gain about an inch more clearance on the outboard side is to break the welds of the inner fender (over the top of the tire), and add in a pie shaped section. You would essentially be making the rear side of the wheel opening follow the same contour as the front side.
I think until you mess with that fender contour, you are really limited by the tire itself, more than the wheel. 7.5's with a 215 yep (with the correct offset, no problem) but once you go beyond 225-235, you are going to rub the fender as the shoulder of the tire gets into the inner fender at about 2:00 maybe 2:30 (as viewed from driver's side, looking in)
I have actually seen someone, who did their homework and calculations well, slip a 7.0" rim, and the (correct-for-that-width) 225 tire in a IRS Ghia.
As to brakes, I have the two pin square pad calipers, along with late beetle front wheel cylinders installed on the rear.
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The balance is wonderful, much better than when I had the smaller, original rear wheel cylinders.
It really boils down to what HP and Brakes you are going to have, as any amount of tire width beyond what is necessary for those (*), will be purely for looks, and will actually cost you money in MPG and tire cost. I am running a ~stock engine, and ~stock brakes, so 205 with good compound puts me squarely in the middle of where I need to be
* NOTE: this does depend on your usage some. DD city: add probably 10mm more width if you have to stomp on your brakes a lot, or corner hard all the time. DD highway: my 185's were the best mix for a traction while not suffocating mpg when I did a bunch of long trips. If you live in a wet climate, or deal with poor drainage and standing water on the roads, consider 185's due to the propensity for hydroplaning with the light-car/wide-tire combination.
**PS: Tire pressure will be critical, no matter what tire you choose.