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This is the one I have. Works great.
http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Bolt_on ... 7-2975.htm

That is the most common truss/kaffer/traction bar besides the "Stiffy" but they all have the same problem, they share the mount for the shock absorber putting a lot of strain on the forging's eye.
I spent a lot of time trying to get my version of the one previously shown (identical) to work but...
… this is where I found fault. In the first picture I inserted a small spacer in place where the shock would be but if you consider the angle that the rod to the trans mount is and the angle the shock eye sits at then consider that the bolt is a lever then you can get a lot of twisting to the shock tower. Bing that I run off-road and on the sand there is a lot more violence given to the shock and bounding round of the engine so I would see a lot of broken forging eyes and different mountings for the shocks because of it.

The second picture is the end bracket and bolt that comes with the kit. With the shocks I am using the 1+ inch wide shock eye covers the shank of the bolt so the threaded area could be put in shear in the shock eye. The version of shock I have more than doubles the distance in the above pix. Turning the bolt the other way so the threads start inside of the mount should help some but I am not sure what "some" is in this case. The potential for the forging eye to twist and break is still there... in my opinion anyway.

Now that I have switched to a bus trans things got worse .

For what it is worth... Lee

I have the same one.......it might be the 1.0 inch diameter one, It was fairly easy to install and adjust. Add a mid mount and it keeps the transmission in place. There is still a little flex and I don't do hard launches but it definitely firms everything up.







It does make the starter a bit of a challenge to remove and also the lower right bellhousing nut is not as easy to get at......which is why I pull the starter......and that is with the Buggy body off......

I also picked up the bolt on midmount from a STF member a few years back and that is a nice addition for keeping the nose cone from breaking on hard launches.
Even though I have all that stuff on doesn't mean I launch hard.......
I'm such a chicken.......Although I know exactly how much work it is to get to each part of my buggy..... almost down to the hour......

Good pix Art
This is what I was talking about: as the loads go up and down the connectors to the cross-piece they can cause the cross-piece to flex which puts a load on the bolt like the arrow shows. I also (maybe) can get a little more rotary (possibly) too depending on what the pickle forks are doing. Those loads are putting a flexing load on the bolt's shank which translates into the eye of the forging too. It is when the loading gets into the threaded area that the bolt can fail.

Those of us with heavier than stock ACVWs engines (and even them depending on a lot of things) the pickle fork arms are going to want to flex even more than a stock VW engine might do. Remember, the bug was not designed for what a lot of us are doing with them.

For around town the commercial truss's should work satisfactory but it is when one is getting frisky with their ride that things can go down hill real fast (pun intended).

Lee

Mine is the one inch one. Its been in service for almost 7 years now. Definitely makes working under there a bit of a chore. Seems to keep things nice and stiff, at least on my 2000lb 300+whp POS. No wheel hop, ever. I also have the same front mount Clone referenced. Used to be called a Moore Mount, till EMPI copied it. Theirs works great and it's cheap! My transmission is also solid mounted front and rear. I don't believe that you have to go that route, I chose to after breaking the urethane mounts out of my car. Solid don't wear out, though mine do come loose every couple of years for some annoying reason.

Lee- Thanks for the heads up in the bolt loading. I do better with pictures.

Thanks everyone else for the set up information.

I’m gonna talk to some friends and see if I can fab up some mounts that are cheaper and use the parts pile recommended from Tractor supply. Worst case I’ll start saving for it and do it eventually.

Time to start working on some of the computer items.





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Switched over to sequential injection this morning on the drive to work. The switch over was anti climatic. A few key strokes and it was done. Had to power cycle the car and low an behold it started right up! It never liked to start warm before that.

Idle was similar to batch maybe a bit smoother.

At light throttle the response seems much improved and with minimal jerkiness or lurching.

Though I forgot to log my drive home I’m pretty sure I was in boost faster. Say maybe 2000-2100.

So far I’m super stoked about sequential.


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Nice! If you can start building boost at 2k, it should really haul if it will hold that big boost to redline!

Yeah, I need to figure out a camera mount of some sort. But it felt good today. Also need to up my upper range timing.


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Having videos is fun! But they are a lot less exciting than when your driving. The pull these have doesn't really come through in the vids!

Can anyone enlighten me on the boost control settings? Ie running open loop vs closed? Also how the table works? And if it’s needed?

Thanks Schweg




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I've had better luck with Open Loop than Closed Loop.
Left side is throttle position and bottom is rpm.

Clone,

Are the cells in that table the duty cycle that other posts reference?

Thanks for the open vs closed

Schweg

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Ms3 closed works well, but you need to run in open loop to dial in the initial duty table. Once the thing knows where to start it is able to control much better. My compound setup came on way faster than my single setup did and threw all of my settings off. I had to figure out how boost duty affected things again in order to be able to switch back to closed loop.

I had my table set for 95% from 20-60% throttle and all rpms and then 67% from about 70%to 95%. That got me up to 25 lbs. boost with the old intake system.
The new intake takes a different setting which I'm still working on due to the trip this summer. Right now I'm at 71% DC and it gets me somewhere around 22 lbs. boost.
That is as high as I've worked my way up to since the new intake and fuel system.

I tried Closed Loop for a while but kept hitting the boost cut at 275 kpa. It also was surging quite a bit and I found if I lowered the target boost I basically had to start over on the closed loop settings.
Due to limited time to mess with it I went back to Open Loop and am working my way up.
Once the weather cools down my engine's boost tolerance will rise and I can try for max boost again.

The DC depends on how you have your solenoid set up.....Mine is set for higher boost when the DC is higher. Buguy has his set for less DC for higher boost.