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Guys, just wanted to say this is a very informative thread for swing-axle newbies like myself ... thanks!!


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Ed N.

What about shorter rear shocks or shims/wedges that will fit between the springplate an the houseing?

Hello-

What about shorter rear shocks or shims/wedges that will fit between the springplate an the houseing?

I would imagine that stops, limit straps, etc. all provide a fairly uncomfortable ride, and shorter shocks (e.g. Porsche 356) wouldn't last very long

I have been told, however, that I can purchase specially made race shocks that have limiters built in. The last time I checked, they were ~ $500 each.

Paul

What about a large diameter bolt (1/2" or so) with a nylon nut. Weld on a washer on the end of the bolt, and a "L" bracket with a washer welded on one end, and a hole in the other. The bolt goes through the hole.

It goes like this:

welded washer-bolt-L Bracket-washer-rubber bushing-washer-nylon locknut, then the other side of the L bracket a washer welded on it.

The welded washers on the bolt goes to the shock bolt, and the welded washer on the L bracket goes to the other shock bolt. If you wanted to get real durable, you could make the L bracket a sort of "U" bracket, with the upper tangs welded together, so that there is no lateral movement. Like a stretched triangle. That would be 100% stronger.

That way, it acts as an adjustable limit strap, BUT you have the rubber damper to prevent a big bump sensation. Thoughts?

This has been an excellent series of postings on CC, Z-bars and such. Just to revive it a bit,, I will ask a related question. When I drive my swing axle forward, it settles in the rear to its natural height,, which is close to zero camber. When I back up,, the rear end rises (about 2"), and the wheels assume a positive camber. This is handy for exit and entry from this very low car, otherwise it just looks goofy. I am not sure if this happening during normal driving or not,, say when I brake or gear down,, I don't sense it anyway. Anyone else experience this tendancy for the rear to jack up and down, depending on direction ?? Catmandu

Hi Cat,

When you roll forward, the rear wheels try to spread apart at the front, and the leverage created tends to depress the axles.

When you roll backwards, the wheels try to spread apart at the rear, and the leverage jacks up the axles.

Wear, and rear alignment determine the amount of positive or negative camber either of two conditions create.

FJC

Gave it some thought,, and came to the same conclusion today,, FJ. So the next step was to pick up my tape measure, and do a rough measurement across the rear tread faces, at pan height,, about 8 inches off the ground. I got approx. .75 inches difference,,, toeing out,,, Yikes !! Will double check my measure tomorrow, and look into available adjustment. I have noticed that, when the car is rolling slowly it seems like there is a real drag on its momentum (like the brakes were dragging). Excessive toe-out would do that,, as well as create strong jacking forces. Cat'

FJ,, just to minimize the number of times I have to adjust my rear toe,,, what is the approx. ratio of movement to achieve the desired result. A quick sketch and some rough measures suggest that if I move both axles forward a 1/4 inch,, I will get about a 1/2 inch reduction in measured toe-out. Does that sound about right ?? Cat'

Hi Cat,

Time to see how lucky you are.

VW actually made the swing axle spring plate bolt slots so that if you loosen the axle bolts and pull the axle assembly all the way back and then tighten them down, you're supposed to have either zero or very minimal toe-in.

This was so on the assembly line no rear toe setting had to be set.

Now, even many years later, and much road use wear and tear, that still might work for you. Try that first before anything else.

FJC

But as mentioned above,, in my current axles location (which appears to be well back), I am measuring .75 inches of Toe-out. So why would I pull the axles even further back ?? That would make the toe-out even worse,, would it not ?? I am thinking I need to move them forward,,, to get closer to about 1/8 inch toe-out. What am I missing here ??? Cat'

You may have to slot the holes in the spring plates to move it forward.
Are your spring plate rubbers good? (sorry if you answered already)
s

I have not had my bushing cover plates off yet,, Steve. It is is on the list,, but did not appear to be necessary at the moment. The axles already appear to be fully back,, which means they have the full range available to move forward. Tomorrow evening,, I will see if I can get the 3-per side adjusting bolts loosened up. If so,, after marking the current position,, a couple of belts with a mallet should tell me something. Cat'

Before trying to dial it in you need to replace the spring plate bushings. They are like 40 years old.

Hi Cat,

Listen to Steve. You may have half an inch of fore and aft play in those old bushings.

FJC

I will get those side plates off,, and check it out. Thanks, will let you know what I find,, Cat'