If you are interested in prepping th CV joints, most of the CV prep on the web is for 930s but it has to be close enough that you can get the idea of what to do from them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZOCjwSXgkQ
Here is some more information:
http://www.dune-buggy.com/techtips/cv_j ... ishing.htm
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm
Tools for polishing the (930) CVs:
http://www.racereadyproducts.com/race-p ... hing-bits/
“Fine tuning the CV joints.
For off-road use, it’s better if the whole joint is kept just a little loose. There may be a slight increase in noise, but it shouldn’t bother you during racing. The benefits are that the joints will survive heavy knocks, and they’ll also handle the large, rapid changes in direction, as the suspension cycles up and down.
A new CV joint is quite a rigid assembly, making it difficult to rotate the internals by hand. If you did manage to rotate the innards of a new joint to the point where the balls could be pulled out, you’d have a hell of a job reassembling it all.
Race CVs are fine tuned by lightening the exterior of the housing, and polishing and relieving the internals. The housing is made from alloy steel, but only the inner tracks are induction heat-treated. This means narrow grooves can quite easily be machined away to reduce the rotating mass and unsprung weight. Do not buy regular lightened "race" CVs, as they have a wide area of material machined off the outsides of the housings, and can’t be fitted inside the R6’s bearings.
The depth of the case hardening of the tracks is in the vicinity of 1.2mm to 2.5mm, so some grinding to a depth of 0.25mm by specialist CV reconditioners (to accept 0.50mm oversize balls) is possible, and light honing by racers is perfectly acceptable.
Highly accurate machines using CBN coated grinding “stones” are used in the regrinding process, and should not be attempted with a hand held die-grinder in the home workshop.
Don’t use any pitted or scored parts, as they will promote rapid wear and consequently, the whole CV joint could fail. If you find any pitting in the cross grooves of a star or housing, just use one of your spare CVs, but don’t throw out any damaged stars yet!
Part of the housing and star manufacturing process involves broaching the cross grooves. The drag marks on the surface of the grooves are usually clearly visible. All the bearing surfaces need to be polished with aluminum oxide abrasives.
Pick a sound, clean star and clamp it in the vice so about half of it is above the vice jaws. Mount an expanding arbor in the die-grinder, and push a 80 grit sanding sleeve onto it. Holding the die grinder with both hands, lightly polish the entire surface of each cross groove. Don’t apply too much pressure, and keep the axis of the arbor aligned with the axis of the groove at all times. The object is to achieve a uniform light grey finish with no shiny spots.
Clamp the CV housings in the vice, and give their cross grooves a light polish too.
The cages require a lot of fettling, but being a difficult, frail item, are easier done while being held in the hand. Put on the gloves, and holding a cage in one hand, give the windows a very light “lick” with the drum sander. Make sure the drum’s axis remains at 90 degrees to the cage’s axis, and keep the sander moving in a controlled circular motion around the inside of the windows. Don’t let it dwell on any one spot, or you will create notches, which the ball could get hung up in. The object of this process is to slightly relieve the windows, while at the same time, softening the edges of the openings to prevent stress risers and subsequent cracks from forming.
Stop frequently, and try a ball in the window. It shouldn’t bind anywhere in the window, and should just be able to drop through without having to be forced.
Finally, very lightly, sand both the inner and outer sharp edges of the windows. Remove the absolute minimum amount of material. Test with a finger, and if it feels sharp, give it another light lick.”
(source:
http://www.rorty-design.com/content/CV_joints.htm)
Lee